oxygen absorbers– I don’t use them much because I have a vacuum sealer. But I HAVE used them, especially when I’m packaging meals in Mylar bags. Curious to know what size oxygen absorber to use? Check this chart:
GARDEN HAPPENINGS:
I am NOT gardening all winter. But, I still have lettuce growing. I ended up NOT moving it into the sun because it was so hot last week. It’s cooling off this week, and hopefully will stay under 90 for a while! I thinned the carrots (Ugh, that’s hard for me to do–to throw away baby plants). I’m still watering most of the tomatoes, and even have a few green ones (we’ll see if the weather holds out long enough to ripen them). AND, the peppers are doing really well. I haven’t taken out the celery yet because I got a very good crop last week.
That’s it. Still haven’t put the garden “to bed.” But soon.
THIS WEEK’S PURCHASE: pancake syrup and jam – 2 of each
At our house, we go through a lot more syrup than jam. My father said that during the Great Depression, their dinner would VERY often be just bread and jam.
MISC. PURCHASE: dish detergent Try to keep 5-6 bottles of dish detergent on hand. If power goes out, you’ll need this. Also, it wouldn’t hurt to have liquid clothes detergent. You can rotate it every 6 months or so.
FOOD STORAGE RECIPES:
Check out the attached document on using leftover rice.
Golden Puffs
From Perma Pak dehydrated foods recipe book
These sounded good. I bought some dehydrated eggs a while back when they were almost $10 a dozen, and thought I’d better rotate them. So I’m going to try this recipe.
In a bowl, sift together
2 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar, 3 tsp baking powder
3 TB egg mix
1 tsp salt
1 tsp nutmeg or mace. It seems like a lot of nutmeg. I’ll probably reduce this amount.
Add
1/4 c. vegetable oil
3/4 c. reconstituted milk
2 1/2 TB lukewarm water
Beat until smooth.
In a deep fryer or saucepan, heat cooking oil or shortening 3-4 inches deep to 375˚.
Drop batter by teaspoonsful into hot oil. Fry four to five at a time about 3 minutes or until golden brown on both sides. Drain well on paper towels.
a) Stir together 1/2 c. sugar and 1 tsp cinnamon and roll warm puffs in sugar-cinnamon mix.
b) Make glaze with
1 c. powdered sugar and 1 TB milk and 1 TB corn syrup
Dip puffs in glaze mix.
Onion Skins – I watched a video the other day about how many vitamins were in onion skins. One suggestion was to use the skins when you make rice. Just add them to the water and when the rice is done, pull them out. Gives flavor and nutrition!
For best results in rehydrating dehydrated vegetables, cover with water and bring to a boil. Cover with a tight lid and simmer for 10-25 minutes. Steam rehydrates faster than anything else.
Peanut Butter Honey Balls
1 c. honey
1 c. dry milk
1 c. reconstituted peanut butter powder (or regular peanut butter)
1 c. powdered sugar
Mix and shape into balls 1 inch in diameter. Chill until firm.
Rice Krispie Peanut Butter Balls
(I shared this about a year and a half ago)
2 c. peanut butter
2 c. powdered sugar
3 c. Rice Krispies
Roll into balls
semi sweet chocolate – melt and dip balls in the chocolate
In this post, we will explore the process of crafting a Sweet Habanero Jelly. We’ll delve into the nuances of water bathing techniques for that perfect, shelf-stable finish. But be sure to stick around until the end as we’ll explain how to create your own homemade pectin as well. Our goal with these videos is never to waste a harvest, an abundance of fruit, or food scrap. We’ll equip you with essential skills for situations where a trip to the store isn’t an option.
SWEET HABANERO JELLY
I like this jelly because I use a sweet habanero variety. It has a little heat but nothing compared to a regular habanero. Your tastebuds initially react to the habanero, but then the intense heat doesn’t really happen. The sweet and hot make an excellent glaze for barbecued or smoked meats, tossed with wings, or simply spread over cream cheese on a bagel. You can use whatever hot pepper you like. If you keep your ratios the same, you can scale up or down the quantity produced. I ended up with 6, half-pint jelly jars, so this recipe will yield around 50 ounces of jelly.
You will need 4 cups of sugar
4 ounces of chopped peppers
1 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
And a couple of drops of red and yellow food coloring to ensure our final color reflects the beautiful orangish red of these peppers.
You will also need 1, 2-ounce box of Fruit Pectin. Later in this video, I will show you how to make pectin from scratch.
You will also need some 4-ounce jelly jars and a pot with a lid to water bath can the finished product. That will make it shelf-stable.
Begin by destemming your peppers. You may want to wear gloves for this process. The heat of hot peppers is mainly in the pith, that whitish part inside, and the stems. You can reduce the final heat by removing the interior of the peppers. You don’t have to get it all out, but take out as much as possible, especially the seeds, to create a more appealing final product. I also have one Thai pepper in here to get my heat level where I want it to be.
Once the peppers are destemmed, you must mince them finely. You must be careful with this process because the oils will burn you. Some people use a blender for this process, but I don’t suggest it because it’s hard to get the oils out of some blenders after use. Take your time, consider wearing eye protection, and don’t touch anything until you thoroughly wash your hands. Keep reducing them until they are like a relish.
Tips:
Be careful washing your equipment as this can release the volatile oils into the air as steam or water vapor.
Wash your hands with dish soap while holding a stainless steel spoon. This will help to neutralize oils.
Sidenote: washing your hands with a spoon will also rid them of onion or garlic smells.
Add peppers, sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, and salt to a small pot and slowly bring to a boil with continuous stirring to combine all ingredients.
When all ingredients have blended together just under a boil, I add 2 drops of red coloring and 3 drops of yellow to get the color I want in my final product.
Turn down the heat and add your pectin packet, stirring until it is fully dissolved, then turn the heat back up and bring the mix to a boil.
Boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly, then turn off the burner.
Let the mix cool a bit, then pour into jars warmed in hot water.
Apply lids, then rings to finger tight and place in pot. If you have a rack you can place in your pot to keep them off the hotter surface of the pot’s bottom, it is safer.
Once jars are filled, place them in the water bath pot and cover them with water. Apply medium heat with the lid on. Increase heat gradually for 5 mins, then bring to a boil for another 5 mins. Turn off the heat and let sit for 10 minutes to finish the water bath canning.
Carefully remove them to the countertop once cooled. Place on dish towel if still hot.
They will seal as they cool when the dimple on top goes down. Once sealed, these are shelf-stable when stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year or even longer. Refrigerate after opening.
MAKING PECTIN
Let’s say you can’t just go to the store and pick up a package of pre-processed pectin. Our ancestors made jelly before the manufactured process, and they did so by creating their own pectin. Making homemade pectin from apple cores and skins is a great way to utilize parts of the fruit that are often discarded. Pectin is a soluble fiber (polysaccharide) found in fruits. It is used as a thickener in cooking and baking. Apples and citrus fruits are highest in pectin, so we will use apples here. The meat and some of the remnants of our pectin-making process will be used to make apple butter in the next recipe.
Here’s a simple recipe for making apple pectin:
Ingredients:
Cores and skins from a dozen or more apples
4-6 cups water
Cheesecloth, or cloth for straining
Here’s a simple recipe for making apple pectin:
Ingredients:
Cores and skins from a dozen or more apples
4-6 cups water
Cheesecloth, or cloth for straining
Instructions:
Gather the cores and skins from about a dozen apples. These can be leftovers from making applesauce, apple pie, or other apple-based recipes.
Place the apple cores and skins in a large pot.
Add water to cover 1 inch above the apples.
Bring the water and apple scraps to a boil. Once it reaches a boil, reduce the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer to reduce the mix.
Allow the mix to simmer and evaporate for 2 to 4 hours.
To test your pectin, put 1 teaspoon of the pectin liquid into 1 tablespoon of Isopropyl alcohol or grain spirit. It should form into a jelly. Do not skip this test or you may need to re-simmer and evaporate more water from the mix until you get it right.
When your pectin passes the test, set up a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth over a large bowl or another pot. Strain the liquid from the cooked apple scraps.
Let the liquid cool to room temperature. This liquid contains natural pectin extracted from the apple scraps. Once cooled, store it in a clean, airtight container in the refrigerator. Use this homemade apple pectin as a natural thickening agent for homemade jams and jellies. Add it to your fruit mixture when cooking your jam or jelly according to your recipe. Remember that the potency of homemade pectin may vary, so you might need to experiment with quantities when using it in recipes. The baseline you are working with is ¼ to ½ cup of homemade apple pectin per cup of fruit for jams or a cup of fruit juice for jellies. I tend to use more rather than less. The more tart your apples were to begin with, the more pectin will likely be in your mix, so crab apples are ideal for this purpose. Additionally, since this pectin doesn’t contain preservatives, it’s advisable to use it within a few weeks or freeze it for longer storage. You could water bath this, as we learned in the previous process, and store it for a few months and up to a year, but it’s such a small quantity we make each time that it’s best just to put it in a jar and keep it in your refrigerator.
In the next post in this series, we will make the best-tasting and simplest Apple Butter you may have ever had right from my family’s recipe book. I’ll show you how to use that homemade pectin to turn regular fruit juice into a delicious jelly.
In the world of prepping and survival, finding the hidden gems of nature that can sustain us in times of need is essential. The best ones, in my opinion, grow in plain sight, but most people would walk right by them, failing to understand that they are entirely edible and super nutritious. We previously featured three different plants like that–the Sunchoke, Purslane, and the Sunflower. We have even made flour out of the pith from the stalk. Today’s overlooked super-food plant is Amaranth. This plant has it all. It’s loaded with protein, and it’s a complete protein, meaning it has the nine essential amino acids that our bodies can’t produce. This might be the best superfood you could be growing. Better than all the rest. Let me tell you about this hidden gem of a super-food.
ANALYZING THE PLANT
Amaranth grows in the wild and worldwide in hardiness zones one through thirteen and will return on its own year after year. Ancient cultures from the Incas and Aztecs to the Hopi, Nepalese, and West Africans have survived on this grain for countless millennia. It requires almost no maintenance, so you can quickly grow and harvest a wild patch or dedicate a space in your garden to it. I will tell you everything you need to know about this plant and even give you a recipe so you can get it in your diet today and start reaping the nutritional benefits of it.
Amaranth is entirely edible and has been grown and eaten worldwide for longer than recorded history. Amaranth is a resilient plant that can adapt to various soil types and climates. You can cultivate amaranth whether you have a sprawling garden or a small balcony. The young leaves can be harvested and eaten as a salad, steamed, stir-fried, mixed with eggs, or used anywhere you use spinach. They taste similar to spinach with their mild earthiness and leafy taste. Sixty grams, about two cups, of the uncooked leaves contains 1.5 grams protein, 129 mg of Calcium, and 367mg of Potassium. These are vital nutrients your body needs and prefers in a natural form.
The flower heads vary and are shaped in long, upright, or drooping spikes. The genus Amaranthus has hundreds of species so the flower can range from green through yellows, golds, and oranges, and even to deep crimson reds and maroon purples. One variety, commonly called Hopi Red Dye Amaranth, was harvested by the indigenous tribe of the same name and became their signature color. Its deep red to maroon-colored leaves and stems became a part of their dyeing process.
These flower heads are the source of the real nutrition, the grain. Technically, it isn’t a grain. Amaranth is a “pseudo-cereal” rather than an actual grain because it is not a member of the grass family (Poaceae), which includes wheat, rice, and oats. Instead, amaranth belongs to the family Amaranthaceae and is botanically classified as a pseudocereal because its seeds are used similarly to actual cereal grains in cooking and nutrition.
The stalks grow to between 2 and 8 feet tall and are a good form of biomass. When dried, they quickly burn or can be converted to charcoal. They can be broken up into more of a mulch to add nutrients to and aerate the soil. They are fibrous and can be used to make charcoal. The seeds will be harvestable at around 90-120 days after planting.
The seeds are where the real nutrition is stored. Individually, they are smaller than their similar cousin, quinoa. If foraging, it’s important to note that there are thousands of species within the Amaranthus genus, and some Amaranth species may have non-edible or even toxic parts. That’s another reason to grow your own, starting from a trusted seed source or to forage from known and easily identifiable varieties.
I was able to thresh out 40 grams of grain from one plant, which I’ll show you how to do in a moment, but that 40 grams of seeds contains 26 grams of carbohydrates and 5.4 grams of protein, the kind with all of those essential amino acids your body doesn’t produce. That amount also includes 64 mg of calcium, 9.2 mg of Magnesium, 1.33 mg of Manganese, 222.8 mg of phosphorus, and 203 mg of Potassium. Look at all these trace minerals and amino acids in this food. It’s definitely one of the most nutritious foods we have ever covered. Adding it to your diet today will provide you with many vitamins and minerals missing from modern diets.
One thing to note about Amaranth is that you don’t have to worry about over-foraging it. So many seeds are in a flower head that simply harvesting them reseeds the patch for the following year. Believe me, one patch provides enough food for you and every other bird and critter in the vicinity.
HARVESTING
The way to tell if the seeds are ready to harvest is to take the flower head in the palm of your hand and squeeze it. If it’s ready for harvesting, you will see several seeds in your hand. I wait until I can clearly see a dozen or more to ensure they are ready. At that point, you can clip the spindly flower heads and place them in a paper bag to cure in a dry place. Don’t harvest within two days of rain because the heads will be too moist to cure properly and could mold instead.
After having grown this superfood for multiple years, I usually let the paper bag sit in my warm garage for a few days until I can get to it. On a tinfoil-lined cookie sheet, I dry the heads on the lowest setting of my oven, which, in my case, is 170. I let the oven get to temperature, wait a few minutes, then turn it off. Repeating this process a few times will dry the heads out over several hours and kill any tiny bugs that may have still been on the flower heads.
Once thoroughly dehydrated, the hard part comes in. You need to separate all the flowers from the stems using your hands. Running them through your fingers, you will continue to break down the flowers from the seeds. Keep doing this until all the flowers are broken up. Not to get too technical, but you are separating the seeds from the parts of the tiny flower–the bristly perianth, operculum, and point bracts. I have seen other methods using a fan or blowing lightly as you drop the grains that will give you a purer finished grain. The ancient way is to repeatedly toss it in the air over a cloth or tarp, allowing the breeze to blow away these lighter parts and the grain to fall. My method is easier, but I will leave some of these parts of the flowers behind. To me, that’s fine, and if you are grinding it into gluten-free flour, as many people do, it won’t matter anyway.
Having tried the fan method of winnowing, where a fan or strong breeze blows across the grain you toss up so the grain falls and the parts of the hull or flower blow away, I will admit I’m not too good at it, especially with these super light grains. It makes a considerable mess, but it’s probably more practical if you harvest a field or large patch of amaranth. If you have a decent breeze, pour your harvest between two bowls, and the lighter non-seed parts will blow away.
I use a wire mesh strainer over a bowl, pour the mix between bowls, and gently swirl the filter. You can use a spatula to break the flowers up even further and liberate the seeds. I even put them in a baggie and use a rolling pin to break them up. Larger pieces can be strained out by bouncing the strainer. Smaller pieces collect in the strainer with this swirling technique. If you dump the remnants and continue to thresh them in this manner, you can pull most of the seeds out. These mesh strainers are available for a few dollars online and at kitchen stores, and you just have to find a relatively small mesh size to get the filtering you need. These mesh strainers are very practical and useful in the kitchen, so I highly recommend them.
You can throw the scraps back into nature along with the rest of the plant’s biomass and have a new patch of amaranth to harvest next year. From the one large plant I harvested, I obtained 40 grams of amaranth which was considerably less than I got from a different variety last year. This year’s plant was huge, and my soil wasn’t very deep in this area, so I had to prop the stalk up to keep it from falling over. This plant was also a volunteer from last year’s plant. I didn’t directly plant it, but harvesting last year sowed the seeds for this year’s plant. I just let it grow.
CONSUMPTION
These seeds are sproutable as microgreens, and the red variety is very popular with chefs as an edible garnishment and finishing touch to many dishes. They are also a nutritional powerhouse. Amaranth seeds are rich in healthy oils and can be cold pressed for a consumable and hydrating topical oil if you have the right equipment. The oil is loaded with Omega 6s and 9s. It has a unique combination not found in nature of these unsaturated fatty acids, squalene and vitamin E. Squalene is a compound that helps to oxygenate cells. The world’s most common source of this critical antioxidant is currently shark livers. Olive oil has .7% of it, whereas Amaranth oil has an incredible 8%– 1,042% more. Studies show that amaranth oil can fight cancer growth, reduce damaged liver tissue, improve skin conditions, and stimulate immune responses. Extracting the oil is a bit out of my scope, though.
Another widespread and more common use is to grind the seeds into fine flour. Pound for pound, it’s phenomenally more nutritious than wheat flour, and it is gluten-free. Amaranth flour is considered one of the best for people with diabetes because it is low in carbohydrates and helps maintain healthy blood sugar levels. It’s a source of vitamin C, which is vital to the body’s healing process because it helps process iron, which it’s also a good source of, to form blood vessels, repair muscle tissue, and maintain collagen.
You can add the crunchy seeds, as is, into trail mixes or granola bars. Or, simply soften the seeds in boiling water to make a nutrient-dense porridge, but my preferred way to eat this nutritional powerhouse is in a salad called tabbouleh. (TAH-BOO-LEE). I’ll link this recipe in the comments below, or you can go directly there at cityprepping.com/amaranth. This refreshing Middle Eastern salad, renowned for its vibrant flavors and healthy ingredients, has thousands of variations. Typically, this classic dish features a base of finely chopped fresh parsley and mint mixed with a cooked grain like bulgur wheat, quinoa, or, in our case, amaranth. This zesty and herbaceous salad is bursting with Mediterranean flavors.
For this recipe, I will add a cup and a half of boiling water to my cup or 40 grams of grain, cover, and set that aside. The thing about tabbouleh is you don’t have to measure any of the ingredients. No two salads are the same. I loosely measure some of them here to give you a baseline. I will then chop up a big handful of mint and a handful of parsley. Chop these ingredients until they are in tiny minced pieces. I am then going to chop in 60 grams of amaranth leaves. Unless you are growing amaranth or have access to an Asian market that carries them fresh, you may not have these to add. That’s alright; you can substitute spinach or simply omit it.
To this minced-up mix of leaves, I will juice one medium-sized lemon, the equivalent of about three tablespoons of lemon juice. I will chop up a small bunch of green onions, dice two medium-sized tomatoes, about half of a red onion diced, about a dozen kalamata olives, a little bit of sweet red pepper, and one finely minced garlic clove. When the amaranth has softened, remove it to the salad with a slotted spoon or, more efficiently, with your wire mesh strainer. The soaked grains will not pass through it now. Add it to your salad and stir until all ingredients are incorporated. I always add a pinch of salt, a little black pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil to my salad. Other additions to your salad include cucumber, pine nuts, green olives, sweet peppers, hot peppers, chickpeas, pomegranate seeds, and even radishes finely diced for a little kick. I don’t typically make it this way, but I cubed a small chunk of feta cheese for extra flavor, tang, and saltiness.
You can eat it immediately, but I find it’s even better the second and subsequent days as the flavors meld together and the amaranth softens even further. This salad is probably the healthiest thing you can eat and is incredibly simple to make.
When you think of a food you truly could survive on that most people wouldn’t even recognize in the wild, think of amaranth. It’s easy to grow and process, more nutrient-dense than most foods on the planet, and can be prepared simply by soaking it in warm or hot water. In a survival situation, amaranth becomes even more valuable. Its seeds are tiny powerhouses of energy packed with essential nutrients that can keep you going when other resources may be scarce. Start an amaranth patch in your yard and enjoy the towering stalks of giant varieties or the bushy foliage of the smaller, colorful versions. Eat the leaves and the seeds each season and watch it come back year after year. It’s the type of food that civilizations have survived on for countless millennia, so you can, too.
As always, stay safe out there.
COMMENTS:
Visit cityprepping.com/amaranth for the complete recipe.
DIY Two-Bucket Wilderness Water Filtration System with Enhanced Microbial Removal
Water is your most critical resource after a disaster. After you run through your own backup supply, then what? Sure, you can buy a small water filter which is great, but what happens when it breaks or just stops working? I’ve seen a lot of DIY water filtration systems over the years using 5-gallon pails, but before you try building one using that approach, watch this video.
In this video, we will build a more effective water filter which leverages the wisdom of our ancestors to eradicate harmful biological contaminants. After a disaster, if boiling isn’t an option, this should be your go-to filtration system for up to a month of continual, clean drinking water. We will assume you can’t run to the store to buy things like a spigot, activated charcoal, ceramic filters, silicone, or even reliable power tools. Instead, you can prebuild a filter now for emergency use later using this simple approach.
What You’ll Need
For this water filtration system, you will need:
Two 2-gallon food-grade plastic pails with lids.
Nail, pliers, and fire source.
A fine cotton cloth like a bed sheet.
For the Filtration Layers:
Traditional pyrolysis-produced charcoal (we explained how to make this in a recent video which we’ll link to below)
Fine sand.
Small pebbles or gravel.
One or more of these plants for enhance microbial removal: Thyme, Pine Needles and resin, Juniper, Bay Leaves, Eucalyptus, Burdock, Yarrow, Mugwort, Hops, White Willow bark, Neem leaves, Rosemary, or Tulsi (commonly called Holy Basil)
You will need a clear plastic or glass container or bottle for added solar disinfection post-filter.
Steps:
As I do each step of this process to build a water filtration system, I will give you the minimum, better, and best practices. What you can do will depend greatly on your situation and resources after a disaster. I will assume you won’t have access to a fancy ceramic filter, but your situation will be slightly better than digging a hole near a creek and drinking straight from the water that fills the hole.
There’s only one major rule when it comes to drinking water from the wild: “Don’t die.” The things that can kill you or make you sick enough to die are considered pathogens and are in wild water. A pathogen is a biological agent, typically a microorganism or infectious agent, that causes disease or illness in its host. Pathogens can be bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoa, parasites, amoebas, or other microorganisms, and they can infect and replicate within a host organism, leading to various health problems. A small dose can cause stomach issues, but post-disaster vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal if the pathogen multiplies uncontrollably. To neutralize these pathogens, boil or chemically treat water. The only way to completely guarantee that these pathogens are neutralized is to boil your water or chemically treat it. Even with the filtration system we will build here, your best protection is always to boil your water or chemically treat it. That said, this system, in my opinion, if constructed correctly, will render water drinkable and pathogen-free in an emergency.
Step 1: Prepare your filtration medium.
Charcoal
Whether you followed our instructions for making your own charcoal which I’ll link to below, harvested bits of charcoal from unburnt wood in a campfire, or started with non-chemically treated, all-natural charcoal to prepare it for your emergency water filter, you will need to smash it down to smaller pieces. The charcoal you have made yourself is best because you can control the consistency and quality better and know the source of the original biomass used to create it. Store-bought charcoal may not have completed the pyrolysis process. You see, this piece is still mostly wood. That means that it won’t absorb toxins and chemicals well, and it won’t crunch up as we need it to. This can quickly be done with a rock or any blunt object. Powdering is okay, but I find this almost too fine, so I like a little granularity to enhance flow. As I show in the charcoal video, you can get a near-perfect size from hardwood pellets.
Charcoal used in water filtration works by adsorbing impurities, including chlorine, organic contaminants, and some microorganisms, thus improving taste, reducing odors, and enhancing water quality, but it should not be relied upon as the sole method for disinfecting water with regard to microbial contamination. So, if you have enough charcoal in your filter, you can drink your pool water because it will absorb the chlorine, contaminants, and microorganisms.
Sand
When you source sand from the wild, you will pick up all kinds of biological materials, minerals, and heavy metals. If that’s all you have, you must make do with it. In extreme survival situations, people will often dig a hole next to a stream to allow this sand, even as dirty as it is, to filter out what it can. They then drink from the whole as the water filters into it. Our sand we will wash until the water runs clear. If water isn’t available in large quantities in a post-disaster situation, you can put it in a cloth sack and let a stream run through it, or you can bake it in a pan over a campfire to kill any biological material in it. Just to be extra sure that any biological elements are rendered inert, it’s “better” to dry it in a thin layer in the sun, allowing the sun’s ultraviolet light to kill off microorganisms. It’s best to pasteurize it by heating it in water to at least 140 degrees or higher for 10 minutes or longer. I begin with an excess of sand, which I wash until the water runs mostly or entirely clear, briefly bring to a low simmer, settle, drain, and use the upper layer, leaving about a centimeter untouched on the bottom, as heavy metals are prone to settling at the sand’s bottommost layer. I will heat my sand on the stovetop until it’s at least 140 degrees. This pasteurization will provide me an inert filtration medium to start with.
Sand used as a water filtration medium functions by mechanically trapping suspended particles, promoting the growth of beneficial microorganisms in slow sand filtration, adsorbing some contaminants, and preparing water for disinfection, collectively enhancing water quality and clarity.
Pebbles
The best pebbles to use are solid rocks, pea-sized, which I will wash until clear water flows and heat in the same manner as the sand. This will kill off any microscopic biological material in any pockets or crevices of the pebbles and wash off any dust or powdered minerals on the rock.
Pebbles, often used as a coarse filtration medium in multi-layer filtration systems, primarily provide mechanical filtration by allowing water to pass through while trapping and removing larger debris, sediment, and some particulate matter, thereby helping to pre-filter the water and prevent clogging of finer filtration layers. A filter that is too dense with sand and charcoal will also drain too slowly or not at all.
Cloth
Between filtering materials, we will be using cloth. I will use an old cotton material that I can cut up. You will want to ensure it is old and clean so you don’t have to worry about chemicals or colors being introduced to the water. Over each layer, we will put down a layer of cloth. We will want to ensure it is tight around the sides of our container. You want to ensure there isn’t any leakage and bypass around the cloth.
Cloth, when used as a filtration medium, physically strains out particulate matter, sediment, and larger impurities from water by allowing liquid to pass through while retaining solids, contributing to water clarification and filtration. It will also help to keep your layers separated. I will use cotton, which, in my opinion, is better than synthetic cloth, for this purpose.
Plant Layer
What makes our water filtration better, in my opinion, than what you might find on the internet is the addition of a plant filtration layer. You might ask how all our ancestors drank from wild sources and survived. Some didn’t, but they deeply understood nature, even if they didn’t understand the mechanics of microorganisms. Indigenous communities often relied on natural springs, which provided cleaner and safer water sources. Even before pasteurization was scientifically documented, indigenous communities effectively pasteurized water by heating it over a fire, using boiling or heat to kill harmful microorganisms in their water sources. Additionally, they employed natural materials like sand, gravel, and charcoal for filtration, and many cultures utilized plant-based remedies to treat and purify water.
Our plant layer will consist of one or more of these plants for enhanced microbial removal: Thyme, Pine Needles and resin, Juniper, Bay Leaves, Eucalyptus, Burdock, Mugwort, Hops, Willow bark, Moringa seeds, Neem leaves, Rosemary, or Tulsi (commonly called Holy Basil). You could use more types of plants, but the ones I list here are most commonly found and easily identifiable so that you can forage them from nature.
These plants have natural antimicrobial, antifungal, antivirus, and water-purifying properties, which can help inhibit the growth of microorganisms and clarify water by removing impurities. To this day, indigenous people around the world still use Tulsi, Moringa seeds, and some of the other plants mentioned to make water safer to drink. The volatile oils, polyphenols, terpenes, and terpenoids, like those that give Rosemary and Eucalyptus their distinctive aromas, have been studied for their ability to inhibit the growth of bacteria and certain viruses. In our filter, we shouldn’t have to worry about these oils getting into our finished water supply because the charcoal layer should absorb the oils.
I have foraged some Silver Dollar Eucalyptus leaves and branches, pine needles, some branches, and sap from an Arizona Cypress (any conifer will do), and some Rosemary branches. To prep these, I will soak them to wash off bugs or pollen. When I add them to the filter, I will rough-cut them to increase their release of oils and to allow water to pass through easily. I was very excited to find the cypress sap, and I will just let that mix in with the rest.
Step 2: Constructing The Filter
This will be a one-bucket filter and a one-bucket collection system. Again, I will try to emulate a post-disaster environment where you may not have access to a power drill, grommet, spigot, or silicone. If you have any of those luxuries, you can install a spigot in the bottom bucket to make it easier to access the water.
We will begin by poking holes through the bottom of one bucket and the lid of another. I am building this as if you do not have a power drill, so I will heat a nail as I might in a fire and then poke it through using a set of pliers. I don’t want to use a hammer and nail as that could cause my heavy plastic bucket to split, so I am melting and poking through with this method. Think of this as a clock face and put a series of holes at each of the 12 numbers on the clock face and additional holes around the center. Because the lid has a bit of a lip and the second bucket can be set on top of it, it should filter without spillover. If you have a different setup, you may need to seal around the edge of the lid and the bottom of the bucket with glue, silicone, sap, or clay to keep water from spilling over and being wasted.
Once you have all your holes, take the bucket with the holes and lay down your first layer of small rocks to a thickness of approximately 2 inches. Next, place a piece of cloth and make sure it goes all the way to the edges of the pail and up the sides. Around the edges, place a thin layer of rocks. This will help to keep it snug and prevent water from leaking around. Now add an approximate 3-inch layer of sand. Then, add another piece of cloth with the same rock rimming.
On top of that, put approximately 3 inches of your powdered and granulated charcoal. Then, place another layer of cloth with a rock rim. Cut your plant material layer into about 1-inch loose pieces, and add the mix on top. This plant material will also help to repel any new insects or critters who may be drawn by the moisture and will want to make a home in your filter. Then add small rocks and a little sand to within an inch or two of the top of your container. This will allow you a trough to monitor the seepage rate and add water as required. This final layer will filter out large material but is really to weigh all the other contents down.
Using the Filter
Your first consideration is always how dirty the water is. Is it murky and cloudy, or does it smell? Is it from a pool, a pond, a running stream, rainwater, or floodwater? The filter will be more effective if the water is relatively pure, like collected rainwater. The second consideration is whether you can chemically or solarly treat the water before putting it in your filter. Putting the water in full sunlight for an hour or adding a capful of bleach or hydrogen peroxide will kill off a considerable amount, if not all, of the microorganisms. Just as each layer of your filter is designed to add a layer of protection, pretreatment of your water also adds additional layers of protection.
Each layer in your filter is intended to reduce biological and chemical contaminants, especially the natural organisms that thrive in water. Bacteria, viruses, fungi, and amoebas can all kill us. The “best” practice is pre-treating your water. This will make your filter’s job easier by reducing or eliminating active organisms.
With the filter bucket placed over the empty bucket, use another container to pour water into the filter bucket over time slowly. It should drain slowly into the bottom bucket, and it will take some time. Continue adding dirty water in the top, and when the bottom bucket on the bottom is nearly full, either change it out for a new bucket or scoop the water off. It should be perfectly fine to drink after passing through your filter for all the reasons I have detailed. Still, I’ll add one final layer of protection by scooping the water off into clear plastic or glass bottles and then setting those in the sun for further solar purification.
The water will emerge from your filter somewhat cloudy at first, and this is to be expected. Even though we washed all the filtration medium, this process will mineralize the water. That will settle out with time, and the cloudiness will stop as your filtration medium absorbs water and, after it filters a few gallons. You can see that the mineralization and charcoal significantly raised the pH of our finished sample on the left from our starting point on the right of about 7. The original water may have started dirty, but it might now be cleaner than your municipal water source. How long you can use this filter will depend upon how dirty the water going in is, to begin with. Over time, your filter will collect materials and lose effectiveness. I would dump it in the garden every month and build a new one. The filter materials will enhance and amend your soil.
Remember, there’s only one rule when it comes to drinking water from the wild– don’t die. A powerful filter like this also adds plant materials for an added microbial protection layer. Take a look at our video on how to make charcoal so you know and understand everything to make this filter. You can build this after a disaster from materials you can gather or build a dry filter and put it in your preps so it’s ready to go when needed. This filter leverages the knowledge of ancient people to enhance your survival.
The United States has only one firefighter for every 480 people and one police officer for every 385 people. That means in an emergency, most people are going to be on their own for possibly 48-72 hours, says David Paulison of FEMA.
I was involved in helping people in the aftermath of Hurricane Hilary. Cathedral City was particularly hard hit. Some people and businesses reported mud as high as the doorknobs. The hurricane came through on Sunday, August 20. I was called on Thursday, August 24, and as of just last week, October 5, people were still needing assistance. The mud was so bad that people could not get out of their driveways to get food. Volunteer organizations were contacted to help deliver food. Still, it was 5-6 days before that was organized and food delivered.
I finally rotated all the food in our 72 hour kits. I’m ashamed to say that I hadn’t done that for 2 years, which is WAY too long. In fact, I just threw most of it away, scolding myself the whole time. Better to do it every 6 months, and then eat what you rotate.
One of the things I ended up throwing away was some Maruchan Instant Cup of Noodles. I thought – hey, it’s dehydrated, right? But when I tried it, it was rancid (not too bad, but not great either.) I also had several microwave shelf-stable dinners, and a couple cans of spaghettios and beanie weenies. They got tossed as well. Even the fruit roll-ups were dry. They would have done better if I had vacuum sealed them — next time.
I restocked with gallon bags, each bag holding one day’s meals. I was very lucky this year to have some freeze dried meals on hand. If you don’t have those, try the cup of noodles or other 1 serving microwavable dinners.
Day 1: Breakfast: small container of Raisin Bran, 1/3 c. instant milk, dried bananas, and packs of sugar from fast food places. Lunch: I bought some dehydrated soup– Bear Creek?? that feeds 8 and divided it into 4. I added some small pasta (you could also add rice) to make 2 cups of dried soup, then vacuum sealed 1/2 c. 1 granola bar, and a packet of fruit punch. Dinner: Freeze dried sausage and red beans, fruit roll up, another packet of punch. Snacks: honey energy chews, and some candy – something you can suck on.
Day 2 Breakfast oatmeal, instant milk, fruit roll up Lunch: freeze dried soup, beef jerky, punch Dinner: freeze dried beef ragu, milk Snacks: cookies (not sure how these will hold up in the backpack, and it may turn out to be a lot of crumbs!
Day 3 Breakfast: 2 pop tarts, packet of hot chocolate, dried peaches. Lunch: individual packet of spam or tuna, dehydrated apples, fruit punch, granola bar Dinner: freeze dried chicken fried rice, raisins, milk Snacks: nuts
A note about this: Dried food is not the same as dehydrated food or freeze dried food. Dehydrated food is dry and brittle. Most store bought dried food is “chewy”. It WILL spoil. In my pack, I will need to rotate the peaches, cookies, raisins, nuts, beef jerky, and peaches first. I’m pretty sure everything will last for at least a year. But you have to be vigilant.
You’ll need something to heat water to cook the oatmeal, soup, and the freeze dried meals. That means you’ll have to have a small stove, some fire starters, matches, and a pan. Otherwise, plan something else.
GARDEN HAPPENINGS: Just when the weather cools off a little and the tomatoes start putting out flowers, we get a heat wave of 90+ degrees. Ugh. I’m spraying every other week for aphids, especially in the lettuce, but also on the squash. The leaves are wrinkly and deformed. Just turn them over and you will see little black dots EVERYWHERE!
To control them, spray 2 X a week. My carrots are about 2 inches high.
Once you remove your garden plants, cover the ground with leaves or grass clippings and water it once in a while. You’ll want to keep the worms alive, and encourage good fungi.
THIS WEEK’S PURCHASE: chili or stew 10 cans
Let’s face it, homemade chili is better in every way than canned chili. But in an emergency situation, you might not have the means to cook and simmer chili. Having food that has protein in it, and is easy to heat up, is a good idea.
You can stretch a can of chili by adding some cooked macaroni and a can of corn. You can stretch a can of stew with a can of green beans and a can of corn.
MISC. PURCHASE: Food for your 72 hour kits. If you don’t have time or don’t want to have a kit for each member of the family, then pack one large kit. Focus on food – granola bars, fruit roll ups, etc. You can add to your kit as you go along. There are a lot of lists online for suggested items. Here is a family of 16 children putting together their kits: (688) 72 HR. EMERGENCY KiTS W/ LARGE FAMiLY!! – YouTube
FOOD STORAGE RECIPES
Barbara’s Thermos Soup
from Preparedness Principles by Barbara Salsbury
The only fuel required is what is needed to heat the water initially.
In a thermos:
1-1 1/2 c. grain: any kind or combination: basmati rice, cracked wheat, sweet brown rice, barley, split peas, lentils, long grain rice.
2 TB dehydrated onions
1/4 c. bacon bits (real or imitation)
1/4 c. dehydrated celery
1/4 tsp each marjoram and thyme
2-3 bay leaves
1 TB chicken soup base (or 3 cubes)
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 c. dehydrated carrots
1/4 c. dehydrated green beans
1/2 c. potato dices
Mix ingredients and fill a thermos 1/2 full. Then fill with boiling water. Let sit for about 8 hours. You can cook 1/2 – 3/4 dry pasta and add to the soup the last 1/2 hour.
The author suggests placing the ingredients in a gallon-sized insulated jug. IS there such a thing? I have a thermal cooker, and that would work. But I like the idea of a smaller size thermos.
As a side note – I tried cooking oatmeal like this once. It worked great, and was hot and ready for breakfast.
Frito Casserole
Crush up 2-3 c. of fritos in a baggie. Layer the bottom of a casserole dish with the fritos. In a frying pan,
1 lb. ground beef, browned and drained
1 can chili
1 can tomato sauce
1 can corn
1 can sliced olives drained
Mix and heat through. Pour into casserole dish over the fritos. Top with cheese and bake 350˚ for 30 min.
Chicken With Rice and Black-Eyed Peas
from Preparedness Principles by Barbara Salsbury
1 TB vegetable oil
1/4 c. dried onions reconstituted OR 1 med onion chopped
Saute the onions
1/2 tsp minced garlic – add and cook an additional minute or two
1 1/2 c. chicken broth or 1 can
1 can chicken chunks
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp dried oregano or thyme
dash ground red pepper (cayenne) optional
Add all and bring to boil. Reduce to medium low.
3/4 c. uncooked long grain rice – stir in. Cover and cook 10 minutes.
1 can corn drained or 1 c. frozen corn
1 can black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained
Stir in, cover and cook an additional 10-15 minutes or until liquid is absorbed, stirring occasionally.
After a disaster, you can’t just run to the store or order activated charcoal online, so you must know how to make its cousin charcoal. Ancient cultures made it in clay kilns or earthen firepits, but we will use materials you will most likely have access to after a disaster. After a disaster, if you need to filter water, having this homemade charcoal is vital. You won’t be able to use charcoal briquettes because of the chemicals and residues they may have in them. This homemade charcoal will give you purer carbon to work with, so it’s vital to know how to make it from scratch. I’ll explain all the many uses for charcoal towards the end of the video, and we will do a follow-up video demonstrating how to use it for water filtration. For now, let’s jump in on how to make it.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
To make homemade charcoal, you’ll need the following:
Carbon-Rich Material: In our case, we will use chunks of sticks and chopped wood. I’ll also use the dried amaranth and sunflower stalks from previous videos. I’ll also use these BBQ smoker hardwood pellets. You can use any wood material that you can pack in the container. These hardwood pellets will allow me to pack the containers full of wood material, and if I use the pellet charcoal later in a fire, they will burn hotter and longer than lighter wood. We will want to pack our charcoal-making container as tightly as possible.
Container: The container you use needs to be sturdy enough to withstand the fire for a few hours, depending on the volume of material you are converting. A metal drum, ammo container, unlined paint can, or Dutch oven can be used. The container’s durability will also determine how many uses you can get from it. For our example, we will use some new, all-metal paint cans, an ammo container, and a Dutch oven. Only the Dutch oven can be used repeatedly, as the other containers will deteriorate over time when exposed to the high temperatures of a fire. I am using a lined paint can to demonstrate that some of the lining will chip off and mix with your charcoal. If you plan to use charcoal for water filtration, you may be adding unknown chemicals to your water, so always try to do this with unlined paint cans.
Fire: The typical campfire can reach temperatures in excess of 900 degrees, and that will be perfect for charcoal making.
Tools: Gloves or tongs for placing the hot containers, adjusting them, or removing them from the fire.
Storage container: You will need a storage container to store the finished dry charcoal. Here, I will use a 2-gallon food storage pail.
Safety Gear: Anytime you work with an open fire, you will want safety gear. I will make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy.
THE PROCESS
Select Raw Material: Choose a source of carbon-rich material, such as wood or other plant-based materials. The type of material you select can influence the characteristics of the final charcoal.
Prepare the Material: Crush, break, grind, smash, or cut the selected material into small pieces or chunks. This helps increase the surface area available for the charcoal-making process.
Make a hole in the container: You will need to make a small hole in the container’s lid to allow gasses to escape, but it is small enough to prevent oxygen from really getting in and igniting the wood. The key is to heat the material in an environment with limited oxygen to prevent combustion. With the dutchoven, the gas will vent under the heavy lid, so no modifications are required.
Pack the Container: Pack your container with as much material as possible. Some air between the contents is okay, but it isn’t necessary. The more tightly packed you can make the container, the better. Here, I will use the stock of a large amaranth I harvested in another video, then cut it down into smaller chunks and let it dry. I will also use sunflower stalks that have dried for over a year. They will break apart easily. We’ll also pack in sticks and chunks of other pieces of wood. I will also take advantage of some cheap hardwood pellets for BBQs. Hardwood is superior in many ways. Hardwood charcoal is preferred over other types due to its higher heat output, longer burn time and lower ash production. You want to have as little air space as possible so the smaller pieces will fill in the gaps and airspaces in the container well. I was able to purchase this for around ten dollars per bag. In the wild, you can use any sticks, from twigs to dead branches you can break apart. If it’s dry enough to burn, it can be used to make charcoal. I will also fill a container with rolled-up, all cotton, t-shirt, and wood pellets to make one container that is mostly char cloth.
Next comes the fun part–the fire. Place your containers in the fire and stack burning materials around them. What will happen is a process called “pyrolysis.” This is the same as the process we used in another video to make char cloth from a sunflower stalk. Heating the container to high temperatures causes the thermal decomposition of organic material in the absence of oxygen. The material will release smoke, gases, and moisture but not burn, leaving behind charcoal. You will first see a pretty aggressive plume of smoke. The gasses will actually ignite as they exit the hole. When this process is complete, all of that activity will subside. This is when you will want to remove your containers from the fire.
Cool and Collect: Allow the container to cool once the pyrolysis process is complete. Let the container sit for a few hours to ensure it is cooled and extinguished completely. Fight the urge to open the container because you want the pyrolysis process to be complete. Opening the container can expose your charcoal to oxygen and may allow it to turn to embers or even catch fire. Once completely cooled, the resulting charcoal can be collected and immediately used in one of the many applications.
Opening: Each of the containers gave me roughly the same quality and volume to the initial biomass of charcoal. I don’t know what’s in the lining. The ammo can worked well, and I could get multiple dedicated uses out of it. The paint cans were already showing signs of deterioration. As I mentioned earlier, I would have concerns about the lined paint cans because of potentially introducing trace chemical elements and toxins to my charcoal. For large quantities of charcloth, though, where the intended use is to start a fire later with it, the paint can was impressive. The Dutch Oven, in my opinion, is the simplest and most effective. It can withstand the full heat of the fire, can be used repeatedly, and is probably already in your camping equipment. If it isn’t, it should be.
Store the homemade charcoal in a dry, durable container to prevent it from absorbing moisture and losing its effectiveness. Your charcoal can pull moisture and gasses from the air, so you must ensure the storage container is sealed well and stored in dry conditions. It doesn’t have to be completely airtight, as only the topmost layer will interact with the air.
WHAT IS HOMEMADE CHARCOAL?
WHY YOU NEED TO KNOW HOW TO MAKE IT?
Homemade charcoal serves as a practical substitute for commercial activated carbon in basic water filtration scenarios, enhancing taste and safety by reducing impurities. It can also be integrated into larger filtration systems. However, it should not be used for medical purposes, as it may contain residual substances and gases, making commercially produced activated carbon a more reliable choice for medical applications.
Homemade charcoal has versatile applications, such as serving as an effective air filter, absorbing odors, controlling humidity, and reducing volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and gases. In gardening, it raises soil pH, improves soil structure, and benefits plant growth. You can consult our other video on determining your soil pH to find out if using this homemade charcoal in this manner would benefit you. You can use this homemade charcoal as an improvised writing tool. You can also mix the powder with or soak for a long time a piece in tallow or vegetable fats. This will give it some weather-withstanding properties if you need to write directional arrows or emergency messages on boulders, sidewalks, or walls.
As a fire starter, this homemade charcoal lights easily. It will take and kindle an ignition source far better than most kindling. It burns at a higher and more consistent temperature and can burn longer than regular wood when burned in a controlled environment like a BBQ, forge, or in a low-smoke Dakota Fire Pit. This makes it suitable for forging metals. It has historical significance in blacksmithing and metalworking processes. This charcoal can be added to wood fires to enhance temperature and burn duration.
Most importantly, though, and this is how we will eventually use what we make in this video, this homemade charcoal is a perfect water filtration medium. Homemade charcoal excels at water filtration by adsorbing various impurities and chemicals. As an antioxidant, it enhances the taste and overall quality of water by removing contaminants and making it safe for consumption. By effectively binding with substances like chlorine, volatile organic compounds, pesticides, and specific heavy metals, charcoal eliminates unpleasant tastes and odors from water, making it more appealing. In this crucial role, charcoal’s ability to neutralize oxidizing agents and toxins makes it essential in the water filtration process.
After a disaster, whether you’re trying to start and keep a fire going, filter water for a community, or render the ground usable for a garden, you need this survival charcoal. With these instructions, you can have some on hand when needed. Check for our video on building an emergency water filtration system, and take a look at our video on how to build a low-smoke, low-light, traditional Dakota Fire pit. Don’t let your next bonfire or firepit fire go to waste. Use it as a prepping opportunity and make some survival charcoal.
Water is your most critical resource after a disaster. After you run through your own backup supply, then what?
Sure, you can buy a small water filter which is great, but what happens when it breaks or just stops working? I’ve seen a lot of DIY water filtration systems over the years using 5-gallon pails, but before you try building one using that approach, try this smaller, more effective filter.
Here, we will build a more effective water filter that leverages the wisdom of our ancestors to eradicate harmful biological contaminants. After a disaster, if boiling isn’t an option, this should be your go-to filtration system for up to a month of continual, clean drinking water. We will assume you can’t run to the store to buy things like a spigot, activated charcoal, ceramic filters, silicone, or even reliable power tools. Instead, you can prebuild a filter now for emergency use later using this simple approach.
What You’ll Need
For this water filtration system, you will need:
Two 2-gallon food-grade plastic pails with lids.
Nail, pliers, and fire source.
A fine cotton cloth like a bed sheet.
For the Filtration Layers:
Traditional pyrolysis-produced charcoal (we explained how to make this in a recent video which we’ll link to below)
Fine sand.
Small pebbles or gravel.
One or more of these plants for enhance microbial removal: Thyme, Pine Needles and resin, Juniper, Bay Leaves, Eucalyptus, Burdock, Yarrow, Mugwort, Hops, White Willow bark, Neem leaves, Rosemary, or Tulsi (commonly called Holy Basil)
You will need a clear plastic or glass container or bottle for added solar disinfection post-filter.
Steps: As I do each step of this process to build a water filtration system, I will give you the minimum, better, and best practices. What you can do will depend greatly on your situation and resources after a disaster. I will assume you won’t have access to a fancy ceramic filter, but your situation will be slightly better than digging a hole near a creek and drinking straight from the water that fills the hole.
Step 1: Prepare your filtration medium.
Charcoal: Whether you followed our instructions for making your own charcoal which I’ll link to below, harvested bits of charcoal from unburnt wood in a campfire, or started with non-chemically treated, all-natural charcoal to prepare it for your emergency water filter, you will need to smash it down to smaller pieces. The charcoal you have made yourself is best because you can control the consistency and quality better and know the source of the original biomass used to create it. Store-bought charcoal may not have completed the pyrolysis process. You see, this piece is still mostly wood. That means that it won’t absorb toxins and chemicals well, and it won’t crunch up as we need it to. This can quickly be done with a rock or any blunt object. Powdering is okay, but I find this almost too fine, so I like a little granularity to enhance flow. As I show in the charcoal video, you can get a near-perfect size from hardwood pellets.
Charcoal used in water filtration works by adsorbing impurities, including chlorine, organic contaminants, and some microorganisms, thus improving taste, reducing odors, and enhancing water quality, but it should not be relied upon as the sole method for disinfecting water with regard to microbial contamination. So, if you have enough charcoal in your filter, you can drink your pool water because it will absorb the chlorine, contaminants, and microorganisms.
Sand: When you source sand from the wild, you will pick up all kinds of biological materials, minerals, and heavy metals. If that’s all you have, you must make do with it. In extreme survival situations, people will often dig a hole next to a stream to allow this sand, even as dirty as it is, to filter out what it can. They then drink from the whole as the water filters into it. Our sand we will wash until the water runs clear. If water isn’t available in large quantities in a post-disaster situation, you can put it in a cloth sack and let a stream run through it, or you can bake it in a pan over a campfire to kill any biological material in it. Just to be extra sure that any biological elements are rendered inert, it’s “better” to dry it in a thin layer in the sun, allowing the sun’s ultraviolet light to kill off microorganisms. It’s best to pasteurize it by heating it in water to at least 140 degrees or higher for 10 minutes or longer. I begin with an excess of sand, which I wash until the water runs mostly or entirely clear, briefly bring to a low simmer, settle, drain, and use the upper layer, leaving about a centimeter untouched on the bottom, as heavy metals are prone to settling at the sand’s bottommost layer. I will heat my sand on the stovetop until it’s at least 140 degrees. This pasteurization will provide me with an inert filtration medium to start with.
Sand used as a water filtration medium functions by mechanically trapping suspended particles, promoting the growth of beneficial microorganisms in slow sand filtration, adsorbing some contaminants, and preparing water for disinfection, collectively enhancing water quality and clarity.
Pebbles: The best pebbles to use are solid rocks, pea-sized, which I will wash until clear water flows and heat in the same manner as the sand. This will kill off any microscopic biological material in any pockets or crevices of the pebbles and wash off any dust or powdered minerals on the rock.
Pebbles, often used as a coarse filtration medium in multi-layer filtration systems, primarily provide mechanical filtration by allowing water to pass through while trapping and removing larger debris, sediment, and some particulate matter, thereby helping to pre-filter the water and prevent clogging of finer filtration layers. A filter that is too dense with sand and charcoal will also drain too slowly or not at all.
Cloth: Between filtering materials, we will be using cloth. I will use an old cotton material that I can cut up. You will want to ensure it is old and clean so you don’t have to worry about chemicals or colors being introduced to the water. Over each layer, we will put down a layer of cloth. We will want to ensure it is tight around the sides of our container. You want to ensure there isn’t any leakage and bypass around the cloth.
Cloth, when used as a filtration medium, physically strains out particulate matter, sediment, and larger impurities from water by allowing liquid to pass through while retaining solids, contributing to water clarification and filtration. It will also help to keep your layers separated. I will use cotton, which, in my opinion, is better than synthetic cloth, for this purpose.
Plant Layer: What makes our water filtration better, in my opinion, than what you might find on the internet is the addition of a plant filtration layer. You might ask how all our ancestors drank from wild sources and survived. Some didn’t, but they deeply understood nature, even if they didn’t understand the mechanics of microorganisms. Indigenous communities often relied on natural springs, which provided cleaner and safer water sources. Even before pasteurization was scientifically documented, indigenous communities effectively pasteurized water by heating it over a fire, using boiling or heat to kill harmful microorganisms in their water sources. Additionally, they employed natural materials like sand, gravel, and charcoal for filtration, and many cultures utilized plant-based remedies to treat and purify water.
Our plant layer will consist of one or more of these plants for enhanced microbial removal: Thyme, Pine Needles and resin, Juniper, Bay Leaves, Eucalyptus, Burdock, Mugwort, Hops, Willow bark, Moringa seeds, Neem leaves, Rosemary, or Tulsi (commonly called Holy Basil). You could use more types of plants, but the ones I list here are most commonly found and easily identifiable so that you can forage them from nature.
These plants have natural antimicrobial, antifungal, antivirus, and water-purifying properties, which can help inhibit the growth of microorganisms and clarify water by removing impurities. To this day, indigenous people around the world still use Tulsi, Moringa seeds, and some of the other plants mentioned to make water safer to drink. The volatile oils, polyphenols, terpenes, and terpenoids, like those that give Rosemary and Eucalyptus their distinctive aromas, have been studied for their ability to inhibit the growth of bacteria and certain viruses. In our filter, we shouldn’t have to worry about these oils getting into our finished water supply because the charcoal layer should absorb the oils.
I have foraged some Silver Dollar Eucalyptus leaves and branches, pine needles, some branches, and sap from an Arizona Cypress (any conifer will do), and some Rosemary branches. To prep these, I will soak them to wash off bugs or pollen. When I add them to the filter, I will rough-cut them to increase their release of oils and to allow water to pass through easily. I was very excited to find the cypress sap, and I will just let that mix in with the rest.
Step 2: Constructing The Filter
This will be a one-bucket filter and a one-bucket collection system. Again, I will try to emulate a post-disaster environment where you may not have access to a power drill, grommet, spigot, or silicone. If you have any of those luxuries, you can install a spigot in the bottom bucket to make it easier to access the water.
We will begin by poking holes through the bottom of one bucket and the lid of another. I am building this as if you do not have a power drill, so I will heat a nail as I might in a fire and then poke it through using a set of pliers. I don’t want to use a hammer and nail as that could cause my heavy plastic bucket to split, so I am melting and poking through with this method. Think of this as a clock face and put a series of holes at each of the 12 numbers on the clock face and additional holes around the center. Because the lid has a bit of a lip and the second bucket can be set on top of it, it should filter without spillover. If you have a different setup, you may need to seal around the edge of the lid and the bottom of the bucket with glue, silicone, sap, or clay to keep water from spilling over and being wasted.
Once you have all your holes, take the bucket with the holes and lay down your first layer of small rocks to a thickness of approximately 2 inches. Next, place a piece of cloth and make sure it goes all the way to the edges of the pail and up the sides. Around the edges, place a thin layer of rocks. This will help to keep it snug and prevent water from leaking around. Now add an approximate 3-inch layer of sand. Then, add another piece of cloth with the same rock rimming.
On top of that, put approximately 3 inches of your powdered and granulated charcoal. Then, place another layer of cloth with a rock rim. Cut your plant material layer into about 1-inch loose pieces, and add the mix on top. This plant material will also help to repel any new insects or critters who may be drawn by the moisture and will want to make a home in your filter. Then add small rocks and a little sand to within an inch or two of the top of your container. This will allow you a trough to monitor the seepage rate and add water as required. This final layer will filter out large material but is really to weigh all the other contents down.
Using the Filter
Your first consideration is always how dirty the water is. Is it murky and cloudy, or does it smell? Is it from a pool, a pond, a running stream, rainwater, or floodwater? The filter will be more effective if the water is relatively pure, like collected rainwater. The second consideration is whether you can chemically or solarly treat the water before putting it in your filter. Putting the water in full sunlight for an hour or adding a capful of bleach or hydrogen peroxide will kill off a considerable amount, if not all, of the microorganisms. Just as each layer of your filter is designed to add a layer of protection, pretreatment of your water also adds additional layers of protection.
Each layer in your filter is intended to reduce biological and chemical contaminants, especially the natural organisms that thrive in water. Bacteria, viruses, fungi, and amoebas can all kill us. The “best” practice is pre-treating your water. This will make your filter’s job easier by reducing or eliminating active organisms.
With the filter bucket placed over the empty bucket, use another container to pour water into the filter bucket over time slowly. It should drain slowly into the bottom bucket, and it will take some time. Continue adding dirty water in the top, and when the bottom bucket on the bottom is nearly full, either change it out for a new bucket or scoop the water off. It should be perfectly fine to drink after passing through your filter for all the reasons I have detailed. Still, I’ll add one final layer of protection by scooping the water off into clear plastic or glass bottles and then setting those in the sun for further solar purification.
The water will emerge from your filter somewhat cloudy at first, and this is to be expected. Even though we washed all the filtration medium, this process will mineralize the water. That will settle out with time, and the cloudiness will stop as your filtration medium absorbs water and, after it filters a few gallons. You can see that the mineralization and charcoal significantly raised the pH of our finished sample on the left from our starting point on the right of about 7. The original water may have started dirty, but it might now be cleaner than your municipal water source. How long you can use this filter will depend upon how dirty the water going in is, to begin with. Over time, your filter will collect materials and lose effectiveness. I would dump it in the garden every month and build a new one. The filter materials will enhance and amend your soil.
Remember, there’s only one rule when it comes to drinking water from the wild– don’t die. A powerful filter like this also adds plant materials for an added microbial protection layer. Take a look at our video on how to make charcoal [LINK] so you know and understand everything to make this filter. You can build this after a disaster from materials you can gather or build a dry filter and put it in your preps so it’s ready to go when needed. This filter leverages the knowledge of ancient people to enhance your survival.
Someone decided to make a list of all the natural disasters from Sept. 11 – Oct. 11, just to see IF natural disasters are increasing with time. Of course, one month is not proof, but I was AMAZED at how many there were. Also…. the list includes armed conflicts.
September 11-October 11 disasters and Conflicts
11 Sep 2023 – 6.8 EQ hits Morocco – at least 2,900 people
4 Sep – 12 Sep – Storm Daniel hits Libya – more than 11,000 confirmed dead, thousands still mission
16 Sep 330 foot high wall of water megatsunami hits Greenland, caused by a landslide within a fjord.
21 Sep – Extratropical cyclone in southern Brazil
21 Sep – First snow in Utah mountains – one month earlier than usual
Gujaret, India flooded
Aquito and Abiko, Japan, flooded – 10 inches of rain in 2 hours
Remnants of Hurricane Nigel hits western England massive flooding
Taif, Mecca Saudi Arabia flooded. Kabaa damaged beyond repair
Sweden and Finland get 12 inches of snow, one month earlier than normal
Tornado’s hit East China Siquan and Jiansu provinces
China Yellow River floods collapsing houses – massive destruction
Gore, New Zealand 5.6
Raoshun, Taiwan flooding
Hurricane Lee – Damage along east coast of USA and Canada
Bangkok, Thailand – unprecedented flooding
Tidal waves hit the South African coast 50% of the entire coastline suffers damage
It’s time to move the lettuce garden from the north side of the house around to full sun in the backyard. This week we are still in the 80’s. I’m waiting until the weather cools off a little to go out and do some pruning of blackberries and other plants.
I opened some flour that I vacuum-sealed in 2013. It smells fine, but there is just something about the texture. I’m not sure I like it. I “want” to use it, but…….. I tossed it. I didn’t want to be thinking about it every time I made something.
THIS WEEK’S PURCHASE: – wheat
I checked the price at our local Home Storage Center and they offer both hard white wheat and hard red wheat. I “think” you can buy single #10 cans for about $6-7. If not, you can buy cases for $40-$42. Each can contains 10-11 c. wheat or about 5 pounds. Home storage centers are owned and operated by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. They are open to the public. For a list of locations, follow this link: https://providentliving.churchofjesuschrist.org/food-storage/home-storage-center-locations-map?lang=eng
So what is the difference between red wheat and white wheat, check out this article:
MISC. PURCHASE: All baking supplies are on sale for the holidays now. Pick up some powdered sugar this week.
FOOD STORAGE RECIPES:
Cooking With Dehydrated Potato Slices
Start with about 2 c. potatoes
Add about 2 TB of whatever seasoning you are using: dried cheese, onion powder, garlic powder,, dry ranch, etc
Add parsley or other herbs
1 heaping TB of cornstarch. If you leave this out, the sauce will not thicken.
2 TB butter
1 c. milk
2 c. hot water.
Bake at 375 degrees for 30 -40 min. OR microwave for 20 min.
Here is another recipe for scalloped potatoes
Yields 4 servings
Preheat oven to 350˚
3 c. dehydrated potato slices – put in casserole dish
In a small bowl, combine
1/4 c. milk powder
2 TB flour
2 TB cornstarch
2 tsp onion flakes or 1 tsp onion powder
1 TB dried chives
1/2 tsp mustard powder
1/8 tsp black pepper
Heat 2 3/4 c. water and
3 TB butter Whisk into flour and spices. Pour over potato slices. OR you can whisk the water in first and cut butter in small pieces and put over top of potatoes
Bake 40-45 min.
Want a richer mix? Add and extra 1/2 – 1 c. milk
Adjust water to make sauce thinner or thicker
Sprinkle with grated cheese on top before putting it in the oven.
Chicken and Barley Chili
Makes 10 1-cup servings so plan accordingly
1 can Italian diced tomatoes. I usually use regular diced tomatoes and add 1 tsp Italian seasoning
1 16-oz jar/can Salsa or tomato sauce – use salsa for spicier version
1 can 14.5 oz chicken broth
1 c. Quaker Quick Barley – you can use regular barley (just boil a little longer)
3 c. water
1 TB chili powder
1 tsp cumin
In a large pot, combine the first 7 ingredients. Simmer for 20-30 min to cook barley. Stir occasionally.
1 1/2 lb. chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces and boiled (or use canned chicken) – boil in a separate pan.
1 can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 can corn, drained
Add the chicken, beans, and corn to the pot. Simmer for another 5-10 min.
In an emergency situation that forces you to either flee your home or leave a dangerous situation to get to a safer location, your vehicle allows you to quickly cover distance and carry crucial survival gear. In this video, we’re going to take a look at the bug out vehicle. I have a family of 5 that includes a very young child, so for me, having a vehicle ready along with the necessary gear to ensure we can make it on our own if we have to flee our home and potentially live out of it for several days is important to me. I’ll discuss 16 important categories you should consider when deciding what items you’ll want to always have in your vehicle along with the critical gear you’d want on standby that you can quickly load, and at the end of the video, I’ll detail some things you should learn as soon as possible.
Before we jump into those items, let’s answer this question: what is the best bug out vehicle? The answer is the one you have. My primary standby bug out vehicle is my Jeep. It’s a 4×4 and very capable for off-roading. I am surrounded by mountains with a lot of offroading trails, so I went with a vehicle that’s geared very low to handle steep climbs and rock crawling and is small enough to get around the trails in my area. But, the principles we’ll lay out in this video will apply to any vehicle.
Feel free to modify or swap out any of the items we’ll cover, but the categories I’ll detail are pretty universal and base what you pack based on your specific needs and vehicle’s capabilities.
So let’s jump in.
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Maintenance
I realize this is not covering items per se, but you need to stay on top of your vehicle’s maintenance. Vehicles come with a manufacturer’s guide that defines the recommended maintenance you should do based on the miles driven. In addition to maintenance, get in the habit of keeping the tank at a minimum, half full. I typically don’t let it drop below a quarter empty. Make sure the tires are in good condition, and stay on top of your oil changes, air filter, radiator fluid levels, and other tune up considerations. If you’re not sure where to start and don’t have the money to take it to a car repair shop to get a tune up, you can get the parts at your local auto store like AutoZone and find plenty of videos on Youtube to walk you through the process of doing a basic tune up.
Alright, so let’s jump into the actual items we want to have on hand.
Safety / First Aid
These are items I keep in my vehicle at all times and within arm’s reach as I want these readily available and easy to access. I keep my first aid kit in my middle console which is a bleeding prevention kit from Refuge Medical which includes a tourniquet, I have a seat belt cutter with a windshield breaker on the roll bar above my head and a fire extinguisher on the back of the driver’s seat. Again, I would recommend always keeping these in your vehicle and easily accessible.
Film these while talking to the camera:
– First aid kit with a tourniquet – Seatbelt cutter / windshield breaker – Fire extinguisher
Self-recovery
If things have truly gone sideways and you’re on the road, it’s gonna be up to you to take care of problems that come up if you get stuck or have a flat tire. Like the first aid items, also keep these in your vehicle at all times. Most of these items, minus the spare tire, I keep under my back seat and behind the back seats in my Jeep. And before I go through these items, let me strongly encourage you to change out your tire with the spare tire. It’s a great way to make sure you understand how to do this and have the correct tools in your vehicle.
Kris Film
– Jack. My vehicle requires a special jack due it having a lift kit and the fact that I may need to change tires in offroading situations.
– Lug wrench: It’s a good idea to go ahead and upgrade to a 4 way lug wrench. And make sure it matches the lug nuts on your vehicle.
– Tire repair kit. It’s small enough that I keep it on my vehicle at all times.
– Air compressor. I currently have an air compressor built into my vehicle, but you can buy portable air compressors or even a simple manual air pump will suffice.
– Mechanic gloves. If you have to do any type of work on your vehicle, having a good pair of gloves to protect your hands will be vital.
In addition to fixing issues that may come up, if you get stuck somewhere, have options to get you unstuck. In my vehicle, I always have tow cables and straps and I’ve got a winch mounted on the front. For my Jeep, I also have traction boards on standby staged with the items to toss into my vehicle.
Film these while talking to the camera:
Tow cables and straps
Winch
Max trax
Vehicle Items
These are items that allow you to make repairs or fix minor problems that may come up along with a few crucial items if you’re driving long distances. I’ll break this into 2 groups. The first group of items that I always have in my vehicle, mostly under the back seat and items I have staged next to my vehicle if I have to quickly leave.
Kris Film
Reflective vests. Useful if you’re out working on your vehicle on the side of the road, such as changing a tire.
Extra clothes. Depending on what you’re wearing, you may need a change of clothes to allow you to get dirty.
Socket wrench kit.
Multi-tool
Duct tape
Zip ties
Extra batteries for your key fob. I was camping one time when the battery in my key fob went out. While I was able to get into my vehicle with the key, I wasn’t able to disarm the alarm to start the vehicle.
The next group of items I keep on standby in my garage with the items I’d take with me.
Siphon and pump. I included this one as you may have to siphon gas from other vehicles or places where you can find gas.
Tools
Regarding these tools, I also keep these in my vehicle at all times under and behind my back seats. Why? Because when I go offroading, having an an axe or saw to be able to cut trees to remove branches that may have fallen across the road or using a shovel to dig out of a situation is important. Additionally, having bolt cutters could be invaluable if you run into a situation where a trail may be locked off or gates locked. Having these basic tools ensures I can get around to where I need to.
Film these while talking to the camera:
Axe
Saw
Shovel
Bolt cutters
Comms
When you’re out on the road, having a way to keep updated and being able to communicate with others will be vital. Apart from the radio in your car, here are items you should consider.
The most common form of comms we all have on our person is of course our cell phone. So make sure you have a way to charge it by having a car phone charger that plugs into your cigarette lighter and the cords necessary to plug it in. Since I have a HAM radio license, I keep a HAM radio in my glove box. I’ll post a link to a video I did awhile back that walks you through the process of getting your HAM radio license. Also in my glove box, I have Garmin In-Reach which allows me to send and receive text messages via satellite. Additionally, I keep a couple of walkie talkies stored in my garage with my other important items to have ready to take. Now this last item is a Starlink satellite dish which is not cheap, but it comes in handy for offroading when I’m in remote locations. I also have it for standby if the grid were to go down at my house.
When discussing navigation, you’ve got several options. These are all options I keep in my Jeep at all times. First, let’s look at our phone. You can download an offline map of your local area on your phone with Google maps. So if cell coverage is down, you will have a map backed up to your phone. Go to youtube and search “download google maps offline” and there’s plenty of tutorials that will show you how to do this. Additionally, check out Gaia app. There’s a free version and again, this is a powerful tool, even the free verions. Of course, having a physical copy of maps along with a compass will be important. I have a map of my local town along with a Randy McNally map in the event we had to travel longer distances.
Make sure you keep a physical copy of your current insurance and car registration in your vehicle at all times. I keep these items in my glove box. I know some apps allow you to load your insurance, but if I got pulled over, I don’t want to open an app on my phone and hand it to an officer essentially giving them full access to my phone, but instead, I’d prefer to just hand over the hard copy for these documents. Have these printed and easily accessible so you’re not having to rummage around your car if you were to get pulled over.
Film these while talking to the camera:
License
Insurance
Car registration
Intel
What do I mean by this category? What intel are we gathering? There’s several ways to look at this. Say you’re on the road and there’s an accident on the road ahead blocking the road. Do you come near to the scene to help or do you fly in your drone to check it out in advance to ensure it’s a legit accident? Maybe someone has set up a fake situation to lure you in to ambush you. Or, maybe you’re in an unknown area and get lost and want to pop up and look around. Or maybe you’re contemplating driving onto a busy road with other vehicles but not sure what’s ahead. Maybe there’s a traffic jam and you want to go around the area on secondary roads. For this reason, I keep a drone in my glove box as it allows me to pop up, look ahead, look around, and scout the situation. Additionally, a simple pair of binoculars can allow you to look out at your surrounding area.
Binoculars
Drone
Bug out Bags
I’ve done several dedicated videos on this subject and I’ll refer you to those videos, but I keep these for each family member on standby in my garage. I put them into the vehicle last as I want them to be easy to grab if I have to bail out of my car.
Water
There’s a couple of considerations here. First, we want to have water ready to grab and toss in our vehicle. The general rule of thumb is one gallon per person per day. Since I am planning for a minimum of 3 days of water on hand, I need 15 gallons ready for my family of 5. Now additionally, we can refill them in various places along the way, so I keep purification tablets and a Katadyn water filter with a hand pump in our gear. I went with this particular water filter as I can pump water from a source into our water containers. Since we live in an urban environment, I also keep a silcock key that allows you to open various water faucets such as the kind you see on commercial buildings.
My approach when it comes to food is to avoid cooking and cleaning entirely. For that reason, I’ve got a mix of MRE’s and Freeze Dried Food. The MRE’s can be heated up with their own internal heaters and for the Freeze Dried Food, they only require boiling water. For heating up water, I have a JetBoil with fuel canisters. It’s small enough and light weight that it barely takes up room in our containers yet can heat up water very quickly. If I did run out of fuel, I do have a small, backpacking solostove which while it would produce some smoke, it would be fairly minimum. Also, make sure you have forks, plates, soap and sponge to clean the items, paper towels, and matches or a lighter.
When it comes to shelter, my Jeep has a roof top tent mounted on the back. As you can, right now it’s collapsed, but it unfolds like a book opening and then has a ladder so we can climb inside. I’ve also got an an annex I can add to it, so we’d have shelter for our family in here if we need it. Additionally, I keep our sleeping bags, our rain flies, and rain gear inside of our bug out bags. If we had to bail on the Jeep and walk with just our bags, we have shelter available in our bags. Additionally, we keep a wool blanket inside our containers. During the cooler months, I keep a Mr. Buddy Heater on standby with our gear along with a small propane tank and a hose.
For security, I keep my rifle and magazines in a gun case along with an ammo can that has plenty of 5.56 along with 9mm. Since I have a CCW license, I’d keep my secondary on my person. For the context in this video, you have to remember that we’re discussing a situation where the grid may be down and you’re on your own. There’s no first responders. Unfortunately, those that are not prepared will look for easy targets. That shouldn’t be you.
Firearms case
Ammo can with dedicated ammo
Magazines in ammo can
Personal Hygiene
Observing your personal hygiene can make a big difference. I keep a bucket that serves as a toilet and inside I have poop bags, wipes, toilet paper, paper towels, and soap. I also keep a toilet seat along with our other items. While not quite hygiene related, I do keep insect repellent with this gear. We keep all our personal toothbrushes and other toiletries in our personal bug out bags.
Toilet (bucket)
Toilet paper
Poop bags
Wipes
Baby wipes
Paper towels
Soap
Toilet seat
Insect repellant
Power Generation
The last category is power generation. What are we powering? It depends on what electronics you have. I have the Starlink satellite dish, so I keep a solar generator and 400W of solar panels on standby. Now let me say, you don’t necessarily need all of this, but it fits my specific needs. Of course, you can power most of your smaller electronics by charging them in your vehicle, but I do keep these on standby with my other gear.
Surviving a week or more without electricity and in freezing temperatures will be difficult if you’re not prepared, but it is possible with careful planning and preparation. And at the time of recording this video, winter is not too far away, so the time to prepare is now. This video is a little different as we took the community’s feedback based on the insight you’ve gained from your personal experiences dealing with prolonged outages and incorporated that information into this video. This video is designed to detail things you should be doing now before winter hits, and we also will walk you through the steps you should take if the power goes out when there are freezing temperatures. So let’s go over the nine steps to help you get ready.
WHAT TO DO NOW
As with all disaster preparedness, there are steps to take now to prepare for an event in the future, and then there are the actions to take once the event has occurred. Let’s start with 2 practical things you can begin to do right now to prepare for this coming winter.
1- PRE-PLAN YOUR HOME
There’s a lot you could do to prepare your home, but let’s look at the basics that are pretty easy to do and don’t require a whole lot of work. Let’s start with your pipes. When the temperature drops significantly below freezing, the water in your pipes can freeze, causing them to burst. This can result in water leaks and a loss of access to running water.
So let’s remedy this issue. First, insulate vulnerable pipes to prevent them from freezing in the winter. Insulate any water pipes exposed outdoors or in unheated areas of your home, such as basements, garages, crawl spaces, or attics.
You will also want to seal leaks and gaps in your home to prevent cold air from entering. There are a few ways to do this. First, you can look for light coming in around doors. These are the obvious indicators of a gap and can be fixed by adding a towel. In some homes, the windows may not close all the way, requiring you to add a weather strip to get a better seal. If you want to take it up a notch, an infrared temperature gauge will allow you to find hot and cold spot variations to show where there’s a large temperature difference indicating an area where there’s a leak.
Finally, know where the water supply comes into your house. If the grid stays down for a prolonged period in freezing temperatures, you’ll want to do 2 things: shut the water line off coming to your house and drain the water lines in your home. So let’s talk about the water supply line first. My house has a water meter in the front yard, and I can shut it off there. Additionally, the main water line coming from the meter into the house is my garage, and I can also shut it off here. Find these locations now. I had a subscriber tell me a story about watching their neighbors digging around their front yard, which was covered in snow, trying to find the water meter so they could shut it off. Identify it now and make sure you know how to shut it off.
Download the Extreme Weather Survival Guide today. I’ll post a link in the description and comment section below, or visit cityprepping.com/weather for a free guide to help you set up your preps to survive even the worst weather events.
2- PRE-PLAN A COLD WEATHER KIT
When the power goes out during freezing temperatures, you don’t want to be scrambling around your house, struggling to find the basics of what you need to survive. The fortunate part is that you are at home with your preps and regular supplies when this disaster strikes, so your bin can be dedicated to a few added essentials to get you through the unique situation you find yourself in. For this reason, I like to have at least one bin dedicated to the disaster I face. It can be used for many situations, but this bin or kit will have some specific cold-weather items along with an inventory list on the outside. Having it all in one container also allows you to grab it and go if necessary to bug out. We just did a video recently covering the items you want to get now before Winter hits, and I’ll post a link to it below, but here are some items to consider for your bin:
Fire extinguisher and Carbon Monoxide alarm.
Wool blankets and sleeping bags. Blankets you don’t use immediately can also be used to build a fort in a warm room to form a microclimate in your home which leads us to our next item: a tent.
A small tent can be set up in your designated warm room to provide you with a significantly warmer environment.
LED flashlights and lanterns.
A well-equipped first aid kit along with a tourniquet.
An emergency radio to understand the extent of the power outage. Plus you can power small USB devices with the hand crank.
Insulated additional clothing, gloves, scarves, hats, and boots suited for your area. When it comes to clothing, remember to layer them. Multiple thinner layers are better than just one big jacket.
Personal hygiene items for if you need to leave your home.
Fire starters and a portable camp stove with cans of propane.
Contractor grade, black trash bags, and duct tape for windows, sanitation, and other multi-purposes.
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Aluminum wrap and plastic can also be used taped over windows to create a self-contained vapor lock and slow the heat exchange through windows.
Water purification and treatment methods because snow and ice may still harbor bacteria or toxins, and municipal treatment facilities may be offline.
Shelf-stable food, which will supplement your existing supplies. I prefer keeping freeze-dried food available as it only requires adding hot water.
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Hot water bottle and regular water bottle with hydration, electrolyte-balancing, and flavor powders stored inside.
A multi-tool of some type.
If you have a backup source of power such as a gas or solar generator, heating pads, a heating blanket, a hotplate, a heating coil, and extension cords for small electronics are all considerations for your pre-made kit.
Keep cash on hand (in small bills) in case you have to go to the store to get something and credit card machines are down. Some stores may still accept cash.
Having these items ready to go in one place reduces your anxiety of having to scavenge around your house, potentially in the dark, to find these items. I’ve heard from friends you went through the Texas snowmaggedon who weren’t prepared and struggled to find even a flash light once the power went out. Have this basic container staged in an accessible area so you can act quickly.
So now that we’ve defined what we can do now let’s discuss what to do after the power goes out during a storm.
IMPLEMENTING YOUR PLAN AFTER THE DISASTER
AIR & WARM AREA STAGING: Once the disaster begins, the first thing we want to do is to stay calm. You’ve prepared for this moment, so let’s begin to implement some practical steps. First, we need to select a designated warmer room, like a living room, off of a kitchen and move to that room. Stay in one room if possible to conserve heat. Ideally, the smaller the room, the better, as it will be easier to heat up than a large room. Pitch a tent or build a fort under a table with blankets draped over it to create an area of warmth. The most immediate threat in freezing temperatures is hypothermia. Inside your fort or tent, use blankets, sleeping bags, a space heater (if you’ve got a power station) or any available insulation to create a warm environment. Stage fire extinguishers in easy-to-access locations where they’re easy to grab, especially if you live in a home connected to other homes or apartments or if you plan to use open flame sources. Bring your cold weather bin and stored water into this designated warm room and seal off doorways with thin plastic and windows with duct tape and black contractor bags. The black bags will absorb any sunlight heat. Even though you are sealing yourself off into your defined room you’ll keep warm, you will still want to ensure that some air is circulating. That may just mean a window cracked ¼ inch, but you need fresh air. While staying warm is crucial, you must ensure proper ventilation to prevent carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning if you’re using any type of open flame. If you’re using a portable heater, or any other combustion-based heat source, ensure it’s placed in a well-ventilated area, and use CO detectors. Most modern portable gas heaters like the Mr. Heater Buddy have sensors that will shut off if oxygen is low, but having CO detectors is crucial. Additionally, if you have a fireplace, make sure you have wood prepared in advance. The key here is to find a small enough space you can keep relatively warmer than the rest of the house. Set up shop here.
WATER:
Once the power goes down, you will want to fill sinks and tubs halfway as having water available can serve many purposes apart from just drinking water such as flushing toilets and cleaning. While the water may run for day or two, if lines freeze or pumps stop running, you may lose it entirely . In cold weather that drops below freezing, allowing faucets to drip slightly can help prevent them from freezing over by keeping water flowing through the pipes. Keep hydrated by melting snow or ice if necessary for drinking water. Boil it if possible or use water purification tablets to kill any contaminants. When municipal lines fail do to freezing temperatures, you will very likely need to rely upon water you’ve stored in advance. Bring emergency supplies of water into your warm room. Consider insulating large water containers if stored in an unheated garage by putting insulative materials like blankets around or over them.
Open cabinets under sinks to expose the pipes to warmer air circulation. If the cold temperatures persist for several nights, consider turning off the main water valve or well pumps and draining pipes by open the faucets to let the water all drain out. This is done to minimize the chance of pipe damage.
LAYER UP:
It is critical that you stay warm but not sweaty. We want to keep our core temperatures up. You can accomplish this by several simple means: layering your clothes, drinking hot liquids, staying inside a sleeping bag or under blankets, using a heating pad or hot water bottle, preferably in a sock to prevent it from burning you. Keep your extremities warm with hats, gloves, wool or merino socks along with hand warmers if you have them. The goal is to keep your core temperature stable without sweating.
Finding the right combination of layers can be tricky if you aren’t accustomed to cold weather. Generally, start with a moisture-wicking base layer to keep sweat away from your skin. This could be thermal or moisture-wicking fabric. Next, add pants and a shirt. Then add an insulating middle layer, like a fleece or down jacket, to trap heat and provide insulation. Be sure to throw on a cap and gloves along with warm socks. That is usually enough for indoors, but adding an outer shell layer might be necessary.
SECURITY & SAFETY: While I debated putting this section into the video, the reality is that some individuals, who are not prepared, will look to either take from others or simply capitalize on the situation. When it comes to security, thieves look for easy opportunities. We can take a few simple steps to reduce drawing attention. Let’s secure the perimeter of your home by bringing in any propane tanks attached to grills or firepits. Make sure all ground-level or accessible second-level windows are securely locked. Because of the risk of carbon monoxide buildup, you will want to vent at least one window slightly, preferably on an upper level. A functioning carbon monoxide detector and smoke alarm that can run on batteries are essential when cooking or heating indoors with any open flame, but these detectors should already be a part of your home.
FOOD
Plan your meals to cook perishable foods first. If you’re kitchen will be one of the areas you’ll be trying to keep warm, you’ll want to place frozen foods in a cooler in a secure location outside, on a balcony, or in an unheated garage. Since you already have food preps in addition to the food you live on daily, plan out meals based on the number of people, calories required, and perishability of your food. Break out the camp stove to cook on if your regular stovetop and oven are inoperable. If you have non-perishable food supplies, ration them to make them last longer. In the first few days, you will be eating well because you may need to consume your perishable food supply. You want to minimize cooking time and preparation. Favor stews that can simply be warmed once cooked but will contain many ingredients. If your oven is still working in the early hours and days, bake as much as possible. Bread and cookies will keep for a long time, provide carbohydrates, and cooking them will contribute to the home’s warmth. It is a misconception that natural gas will continue to flow in a power outage. While some main pumping stations do run generators and pumps on the natural gas they are pumping, the sensors, safety features, and equipment further down the line rely on the electrical grid. Use your resources wisely. Begin preparing meals with an eye toward conserving and rationing your prepping food supply.
COMMUNICATION:Try to maintain communication with the outside world, especially if you may need emergency assistance. If your cell phone is working, keep it charged using portable chargers and backup batteries or by periodically running your car in a well-ventilated area. A battery-powered or hand-crank emergency radio can also provide important information. If the power outage is extensive and you anticipate being without power for an extended period, contact local emergency services and community resources for assistance. / They may be able to provide shelter, food, or medical help if your house becomes inhospitable. Knowing your neighbor on a first-name basis is always beneficial because communities thrive together. Remember to do what you can for any neighbors with special needs or who are elderly. Even a small care package for them might make a tremendous differerence.
ENERGY: We’ve become so accustomed to on-demand power in our modern world that the moment our electricity goes offline, for many, it’s easy to feel vulnerable. With an aging powergrid challenged by weather extremes, having some type of backup power source has become more commonplace. I’d recommend you check out my annual review I released this year which shows how they stack up against each other. Traditional gas generators have been the solution for many and it has its place, but with the advancements in solar and battery technology, these options are becoming more affordable than just a few years ago. Even the smallest of systems will provide you with potential days of power for emergency lighting, radios, and communication devices, personal heating devices like blankets or heating pads, necessary medical equipment, cooking equipment, and much more. A low-wattage heating pad running a meager 44 watts will operate for days and can provide heat and warmth to a well-contained and insulated area like your tent or warm zone. Even a few degrees over several hours will keep the cold away. If you ration usage and trickle charge these units back up with solar, you could have a near-limitless energy supply.
Be sure to check out our new video, 23 Affordable Winter Survival Items to Get Now. You can click here on the side of your screen and I’ll also post a link in the description and comment section below. What’s your best winter advice? Share it in the comments below, and let’s learn from each other.
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