Author: CityPrepping

  • Emergency Heat and Light

    Here, we’ll look at several emergency sources of light and heat you can cheaply acquire, easily store, and effortlessly put together. Then, we’ll gauge their practicality, measure their efficiency, and dispel a few myths along the way. I’ll tell you which we think are the safest and which can turn your disaster into a more significant crisis. You won’t want to skip through this content, especially if you are going to rely upon one of the heating or lighting methods discussed in this video as your primary backup after a disaster. The truth about their risks and actual capabilities might surprise you.

    Emergency Candle

    When the lights and heat go out during the winter, you must understand how to create your own from things you may already have around the house or can be cheaply acquired, easily stored, and effortlessly put together after a disaster. These first two can provide light but won’t give you much heat beyond keeping your fingers warm. To read about any of the sources of light covered here, visit cityprepping.com/heaters.

    OIL LAMPS

    An oil-based lamp is easy to make. Oil lamps, the oldest form of candles, have been used since the 2nd century BC, evolving from clay and stone to bronze and glass until the advent of electricity in the late 19th century. Various oils like whale, olive, coconut, and fish oil were used, each with different flammability levels. While a single oil lamp provides only a small flame, it can keep fingers warm, heat liquid, or be combined with others for more warmth. Its primary purpose is just to have a long burning source of light to see by.

    To make an oil lamp, you need a container, a wick, and the oil. That’s it. Here, I use a single-serving stainless steel teapot, a single strand of a cotton mop, and some grape seed oil. Simply dip the wick in oil, insert it into the spout of the teapot, then fill the teapot halfway with oil. Once the wick is lit, it will keep burning but can easily be extinguished. I found that this design would stay lit with a very small flame for about 10 minutes without wick adjustments. The flame was too small to see by. Missing from my design was a wick holder or what’s called a wick trimmer. This is a bead that the wick is threaded through at the top to keep it from falling into the oil or burning too rapidly, as it does here.

    A modern take on the oil lamp can be accomplished with simply a can of Crisco or a jar of tallow and the same cotton strand of a mop. Any rendered fat will work with this method. Here, I put it into the can of Crisco vegetable shortening and moistened the top of the wick with the oil. It lights easily and stays lit for hours and hours. I went about my business and came back to it later, and it was still lit. As a light source, it is sufficient. As a heat source, it’s useless.

    FLOWER POT HEATER

    To test these heat sources, we will use the upside-down flower pot heater you may have seen popularized online. These do and don’t work, as I will explain here. It’s a simple design. You only need a terra cotta flower pot and two bricks to elevate it. I can use a few pennies stacked on top to warm a cup of water. I also use a ceramic tile under this as an added layer of protection and safety.

    In theory, the heat source, when placed underneath, warms the air inside the pot. It pulls in cold air from the bottom and funnels hot air out the small hole on the top. A combination of radiant heat and convection air heats the area immediately around the flower pot. The terra cot clay absorbs some of the heat and radiates it gently into the environment. To test these various methods for heating, we’ll measure temperatures along the way with an infrared thermometer and a kitchen thermometer.

    TEA CANDLE HEATER

    You typically see these flower pot heaters combined with tea candles clustered together. Tea candles are also great for emergencies, but we think they are better for light than as a heat source, so if you are relying upon them for heat, you may be disappointed.

    First, a candle only puts out 75-85 BTUs (British Thermal Units, the units by which we measure heat). To raise the temperature of a 10×10-foot room with an 8-foot ceiling by 1°F, you would need at least one candle burning for 11 hours, assuming perfect conditions with no heat loss and even distribution. That said, you need proper ventilation, so a window cracked even ¼ of an inch or a slight draft would easily negate the candle’s heating power.

    So they are often coupled for this flower pot heater, as I do here. That cranks up the heat, and yes, I do gain some radiant heat increases from this. The problem is I have eight open flames burning in close proximity to each other, and most people don’t try to contain them as I do here with this aluminum tray. The second problem is that all of that concentrated heat completely liquifies the tea candle wax, resulting in it burning faster. It can also lead to the wax igniting. When multiple tea candles are grouped in a confined space like a flower pot heater, the increased heat can raise the temperature of the wax, potentially leading to it reaching its flash point and igniting. While it’s not guaranteed to happen, it’s a safety concern worth being cautious about. This is also a good spot to mention that you should have a fire extinguisher or fire blanket handy any time you are working with open flames.

    Tea candles are good for light and comfort, and they provide enough heat to keep fingers warmer. While you can use several tea candles in your flower pot heater, understand that the temperature gains are marginal and the safety concerns are higher. You will get some radiant heat, but it will be confined to the flower pot itself. A more efficient method is Chafing fuel cans.

    CHAFING FUEL CANS

    If you’ve ever worked in catering or food services, you’re likely familiar with chafing fuel cans. These cans can get extremely hot, as they’re designed to keep food warm. From an emergency fuel source perspective, they’re ideal. They have a long shelf life. They are completely self-contained and portable, making them ideal for bug-out bags or camping.

    Depending upon the type and size, Chafing fuel cans will generate between 890 and 1630 BTUs per hour. Compare that to the candle’s paltry 75-85 BTUs. In the same ten-by-ten room with an 8-foot ceiling, it would take about an hour to raise the temperature one degree in perfect conditions. That’s still not enough to make an area livable, but it might make a small area bearable and keep it from getting deadly cold.

    The fuel inside is either liquid or a semi-solid gel, and the cans seal tightly to prevent spillage or evaporation. They burn for between 4 and 6 hours. This fuel can I picked up for around $10 and has an attachment on top for cooking, so I wanted to see how hot it actually would get. After 20 minutes, it managed to raise the temperature of 8 ounces of water to around 175 degrees. That’s far short of boiling and uses too much of your fuel source to be called efficient. It’s perfect for tea or hot beverages to keep you warm. The same type of chafing fuel can under the flower pot only raised the water temperature to 125, this is because the cup is much further from the heat source. So, you can’t solely rely on this for all your heating and cooking needs. That is hot enough to pasteurize water to make it safe from biological contaminants to drink. It’s hot enough to cook an egg over. This isn’t a long-term solution, but we are looking for efficiencies in a post-disaster environment, and this works for that.

    I added a second chafing can under the pot, and with some slight reconfigurations, I could probably fit three under there. Unlike the basic tea candles, I don’t risk the wax spontaneously igniting with these. Two or three of these under our flower pot heater are going to create a relatively safe radiant heat source on par with a small radiator. It offers localized warmth and is ideal for small, well-ventilated spaces. One chafing fuel can under our flower pot heater produced a gentle, radiant heat source. With two cans, a cup of water was heated to 148°F in 5 minutes, sufficient for pasteurization but not boiling. It probably would never boil because of the distance from the actual flame to the cup of water. It also was an effective radiant heat source. The pot reached temperatures above 300 to 400 degrees°F, creating gentle, localized radiant heat. It would not be efficient to raise the temperature in a room larger than 10 feet by 10 feet. However, if you had this within a tent environment, you could create a warm microclimate for yourself in just a few minutes.

    I also have to acknowledge the safety factor of these. They have a very hot flame that is easily extinguished just by putting a lid on top. If this is all you have to keep warm with, it’s more reliable than a fire, portable, and could prevent you from getting frostbite or your core temperature dropping too much, especially if you couple it with layers, hot water bottles, or a smaller microclimate area. I recommend having a few of these in your winter prepping supplies and maybe even one or two in your bug-out bag.

    PAINT CAN HEATER

    By far, the most dangerously large hot flame is generated by this paint or coffee can heater, which you may have seen in other places on the internet. You know we had to test it out. To make it is a simple process. You only need an all-metal, unlined paint or coffee can, 70% isopropyl alcohol available at most stores, and a roll of toilet paper. Use an all-metal can like an unlined paint can or coffee can. Here, I use a coffee can. I remove the label so it doesn’t melt or burn. Jam a roll of toilet paper into it by scrunching it down and working it into the can. Remove the cardboard inner roll, and jam more toilet paper into the center.

    Once it is all tightly packed in there, pour in 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. You want to continue to add until the toilet paper is completely saturated, but not to the point where alcohol sits on top of the paper. The toilet paper serves two functions with this heating unit. First, it wicks the alcohol up to the combusting surface. That’s not its main function, however, because this alcohol is very flammable on its own. Its main function is to protect you from accidental spills. If this is knocked over, the toilet paper prevents flaming alcohol from spilling out.

    I fitted this with the cooking top from the emergency chafing fuel can cooker and was able to get water to boil in just eight minutes. This burns very hot and for a long period of time. It cranks out a lot of heat, too. It is a bit of an unruly flame, and it doesn’t burn 100% clean, though I don’t think toxic fumes are as much of a concern with alcohol of this nature. Technically, it’s considered clean burning. The large flame is more of a safety concern. Fortunately, with this design, it is easy to extinguish simply by placing a flat object over the top.

    As for the heating capabilities of this, sixteen ounces of 70% Isopropyl Alcohol will generate 13,000 BTUs. A coffee can heater burning isopropyl alcohol with a 6-inch diameter can produce around 812.5 BTUs per hour. Raising the temperature of a 10x10x8 room by 1°F would take just a couple of minutes, assuming perfect conditions with no heat loss. Sixteen ounces of isopropyl alcohol will take between 4-6 hours to burn off. Don’t try to put all 16 ounces in a container that won’t accommodate it easily. Remember, you only want to fill the toilet paper to the saturation point and not where you can see liquid pooling on top. Second, never refill a container while it is lit or immediately after extinguishing it. 

    This improvised heater is highly efficient, providing substantial heat for its simplicity and low cost. However, its exposed, extremely hot flame presents significant safety risks. While the base of the can may remain cool to the touch, moving it while lit is extremely dangerous and should be avoided. This type of open flame can quickly turn a difficult situation into a disaster if not handled carefully, so use it with caution and never leave it unattended. Fortunately, the materials needed for this heater are compact and may already be part of your emergency supplies. Many preppers find it a useful, temporary heat source—but always prioritize safety to prevent accidents.

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    A disaster can easily be made magnitudes worse when you introduce open flames to it. In the aftermath of a disaster, though, you’ll need both light and heat. If you need the kind of heat that will keep you from freezing to death, then consider the emergency alcohol can heater. If you want a combination of light and heat, consider the chafing fuel cans. It’s our opinion that the chafing cans are the safest and the tea candles probably even more dangerous than the high heat generating alcohol burner.  If you only need a little light, tea candles or even a basic oil lamp might be your easiest solution. Whichever you choose, use an abundance of caution and couple your method with our other Winter Survival Tips videos I’ll link to below. The first is 9 Survival Tips For A Winter Power Outage, and the second is 30 Affordable Winter Survival Items to Get Now. Coupling the heat and light solutions discussed here with the solutions and items discussed in those two videos to watch next will ensure you have what you need when the lights are out, and the temperature is dropping so you can see and keep warm.

    As always, stay safe out there.

    LINKS: 

    9 Survival Tips For A Winter Power Outage – https://youtu.be/vAHyJrmzINs?si=IYfQE6OM83Yxbroh30 Affordable Winter Survival Items to Get Now – https://youtu.be/OzEyrahA8Q0?si=GoCIQ0ver4sSLCYY 

  • Forever Foods

    Forever Foods

    Here, we cover foods with an almost limitless shelf-life, their storage requirements, and how they provide long-term calories for emergency preparedness

    In this post, I will cover foods with an almost limitless shelf-life when stored properly. To do this, I have broken the foods into categories so you can also understand a little bit about the proper storage practices and the reasons for their incredibly long shelf-life. The categories are simple: liquids, solids, grains and legumes, and a miscellaneous category of bonus items that you can store long-term for your emergency food supply. These items are easy to store, versatile, and can last almost indefinitely when stored properly. Stick around until the end and I’ll tell you what little I paid for all the items I will show you here and the massive amount of calories they provide. You’ll be surprised. Let’s take a look.

    Liquids:

    Honey: Archaeologists have found honey that is still edible in ancient Egyptian tombs. Honey is a valuable prepper item due to its long shelf life and versatility. It can be used as a natural sweetener for cooking and baking, a soothing remedy for sore throats and coughs, and a wound-healing salve due to its antibacterial properties. Additionally, honey can serve as an energy boost in survival situations. Honey will pull moisture from the air, so the secret to incredible longevity is to store it in an air-tight container in a temperature-stable environment.

    Maple Syrup: Unopened, it can last forever. Pure maple syrup is a beneficial prepper item with several uses. It can serve as a natural sweetener for various foods and beverages, providing a unique flavor and additional nutrients compared to refined sugars. In a survival situation, it can enhance the taste of otherwise bland meals, provide a quick energy source, and even act as a marinade or glaze for meats. Its long shelf life and versatility make pure maple syrup a valuable addition to any long-term food storage.

    Corn Syrup: that remains sealed and stored properly can last indefinitely. Corn syrup is a useful prepper item with a range of applications. It serves as a sweetener in cooking and baking, helping to provide energy and enhance flavors. Corn syrup can also be used to prevent sugar crystallization in homemade candy and preserves, and as a binding agent in recipes. Its long shelf life and versatility make it a practical addition to your food storage supplies.

    Alcohol: Spirits like vodka, rum, and whiskey can last indefinitely if unopened. You will want to make sure there are no flavors or sugars added to them for the longest shelf-life. These hard spirits are a valuable prepper item with several practical uses due to their versatility and long shelf life. Alcohol can be used as a disinfectant and antiseptic for cleaning wounds and sanitizing surfaces. They also serve as a base for homemade tinctures and extracts and as a solvent for infusing ingredients. Additionally, its high alcohol content makes it useful as a fire starter in emergencies. Just be aware that alcohol burns clear with just a tinge of blue. Here, it is burning but you can’t see it. When sprayed on the skin, it acts as an insect repellent. You can combine it with plants that are known to repel insects, like citronella, rosemary, or mint, for an even stronger repellent. Simply soak the leaves of the plant in the vodka for a few days, then strain off the liquid. You can also make a bendable ice pack with half vodka and half water in a ziplock freezer bag. It will not completely harden, allowing you to mold it around the wounded area or swelling.

    Soy Sauce is an excellent prepper item due to its long shelf life and versatile uses. Its high salt content and ferment creation process allows it to last indefinitely, making it a reliable seasoning and natural preservative for various foods. It can add seasoning and umami flavor to boring rations. It also can provide the body with vital salts to maintain physiology under stressful conditions.

    Vinegar, including white, apple cider, and organic varieties with the mother, also lasts indefinitely thanks to its high acidity. It serves multiple purposes, such as food preservation, pickling and as a sanitizing cleaner. In a slightly diluted form, vinegar has medicinal uses, like disinfecting wounds or soothing bug bites.

    Solids:

    Salt is essential for seasoning and preserving food, enhancing flavors, and extending shelf life by inhibiting bacterial growth. It plays a crucial role in our diet, helping regulate fluid balance, blood pressure, and nerve function. Despite its health risks when consumed in excess, moderate salt intake is vital for overall well-being. Salt never goes bad and can be stored indefinitely, making it a reliable staple for both cooking and long-term food storage.

    Sugar, when properly stored, can last indefinitely. Sugar is a versatile ingredient essential for both cooking and food preservation. It adds sweetness and enhances flavors in a wide range of dishes and beverages. Additionally, sugar helps in preserving foods by inhibiting microbial growth through its ability to draw moisture out, making it a key component in jams, jellies, and other preserved goods. Like salt, sugar has an indefinite shelf life when stored properly, making it a valuable and long-lasting item for any food supply.

    Hard Candy can last indefinitely if kept dry. Hard candy is a valuable prepper item due to its long shelf life and energy-providing qualities. Essentially, it is crystallized sugar in a hardened form. It can last several years if stored in a cool, dry place, making it a reliable treat for emergencies or long-term storage. Besides serving as a source of quick energy and a morale booster, hard candy can also be used to sweeten drinks or alleviate dry mouth. Its durability and compact nature make it an easy and practical addition to any emergency food supply.

    Grains & Legumes:

    Dried Beans can last indefinitely if kept dry and free from pests. They are a great source of protein, fiber, and essential nutrients, making them a valuable addition to any food supply. Dried beans are versatile and used in soups, stews, salads, and a variety of other dishes. In emergencies, they provide a substantial and long-lasting source of nourishment. Though they take longer to cook than canned beans, their nutritional value and indefinite shelf life make them an excellent choice for long-term food storage.

    Popcorn: Unpopped kernels can last indefinitely if stored properly in a cool, dry place. Popcorn is a versatile and healthy snack option, high in fiber and low in calories. It can be easily prepared over a stove, in a microwave, or with an air popper, making it a convenient food item for emergencies or long-term storage. Aside from being a tasty treat, popcorn kernels can also be ground into cornmeal if needed, adding to their utility. When stored in an airtight container, they can remain fresh and ready to pop for years, making them a valuable addition to any food supply.

    Rolled Oats: can last for decades if stored properly in a cool, dry place, especially when sealed in airtight containers or Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers. Rolled oats are a nutritious and versatile food, rich in fiber, vitamins, and minerals. They can be used in a variety of dishes, from breakfast cereals to baked goods and even savory meals. Due to their long shelf life and easy preparation, rolled oats are an excellent choice for long-term food storage. They provide sustained energy and can be a vital source of nourishment in emergencies or for daily consumption.

    White Rice: When stored in airtight containers, white rice can last up to 30 years. White rice is an essential prepper staple due to its long shelf life and versatility. When stored properly in a cool, dry place in an airtight container, it can last for 4 to 5 years or more, making it a reliable source of carbohydrates in emergency situations. White rice is easy to prepare, even after a disaster. Just add water and wait, or bring it to a gentle boil. Its extended shelf life and adaptability make it a key component in long-term food storage.

    Miscellaneous:

    Cornstarch, as long as it’s kept dry, it will last forever. This is due to the fact that it is dry and compacted in fine dust. Cornstarch is a versatile prepper staple, serving as a thickening agent for cooking, a dry shampoo when water is scarce, and a natural deodorant by absorbing sweat. When applied to the skin, it will absorb moisture and odor, and it will help to prevent chaffing. Its multipurpose nature makes cornstarch essential for survival and household needs.

    Baking Soda has an indefinite shelf life if kept dry. Baking soda is another prepper essential with diverse uses, such as a natural cleaning agent for scrubbing surfaces, deodorizing smells, and even extinguishing small fires. In small amounts, less than 1/4 teaspoon, it can also act as an antacid for heartburn relief. It can be used as a toothpaste substitute and a leavening agent for baking when other supplies are scarce. Its versatility extends to personal care, such as using it to soothe insect bites or as a homemade deodorant.

    When baked or heated over a heat source in its powdered form, it releases carbon dioxide from the baking soda. This leaves a more caustic sodium carbonate which has a stronger cleaning ability, can be used in water softening, the making of soaps and detergents, and as an additive to modify pH. Baking soda has incredible versatility, so I highly recommend you get some in your prepping supplies and learn its many uses.

    Bouillon Cubes have a high salt content and density, resulting in them lasting for many years if kept dry. Bouillon cubes are a valuable prepper item, providing a compact, long-lasting way to add flavor and nutrients to meals, especially when resources are limited. They can also provide critical salts when the risk of dehydration is high. They can be dissolved in water to create broths, enhance soups, stews, and rice dishes, or add seasoning to otherwise bland foods. Their small size and shelf stability make them an easy and efficient way to boost flavor in emergency or survival cooking situations. While these may be packaged with an expiration date, with each cube containing 1,000 mg of sodium, they’ll be good far beyond that printed date.

    Freeze-Dried Foods can last 25+ years when stored properly in airtight containers or Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers, kept in a cool, dry environment. Freeze-drying removes nearly all moisture from the food, preserving its nutritional value, flavor, and texture. A wide variety of foods can be freeze-dried, including fruits, vegetables, meats, and full meals, making them a versatile option for long-term storage. Freeze-dried foods are lightweight, making them easy to transport, and can be rehydrated quickly by adding water.

    Coffee

    Instant Coffee is a freeze-dried food, but I place it in a category of its own. In its dry, packaged form, it can last for decades if appropriately stored in an airtight container, away from moisture and light. Instant coffee is a convenient and lightweight source of caffeine, providing a quick energy boost and mental pick-me-up, making it especially valuable in emergencies. Mix it with wax in a candle and burn it as an insect repellant. Its long shelf life, ease of preparation, and portability make it practical for any prepper’s food supply, offering comfort and alertness in challenging situations.

    Dried Pasta can last indefinitely if kept dry and stored in airtight containers away from moisture and pests. It’s a versatile and easy-to-prepare food, providing a good source of carbohydrates, which are essential for energy. Dried pasta can be used in a wide variety of dishes, from soups and casseroles to main courses, making it a staple for long-term food storage. Its long shelf life, compact nature, and nutritional value make it a practical and reliable item for any emergency food supply or everyday pantry.

    All of these foods will come down to the packaging. Sugar packed in a paper container is too susceptible to moisture and pests, so you’ll want to repackage it. Unopened maple syrup, honey, or corn syrup will be fine if it remains airtight and temperature stable. With each item, consider whether it needs to be repackaged for a limitless shelf-life or it can be put away as it is. I’ll link to two videos here where we explore this topic further and show how you can process these foods for later use.

    I’ll let you know that I obtained all of the foods in this video for less than $140. While they aren’t the best nutrition for you by themselves, they do combine for 10s of thousands of calories after a disaster. That will more than keep you alive.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • Biltong – Emergency Food Preservation

    Biltong – Emergency Food Preservation

    In a power outage, instead of cooking and attracting attention, preserve your steaks as biltong, a scientifically proven, flavorful, and lasting protein source that protects against microbial threats and has a centuries-old history of enduring challenging conditions.

    In this post, we’ll show you how to make emergency biltong. When the power goes out, and your refrigerator is warming by the second, having biltong ingredients and equipment on hand to preserve your meat is essential. This traditional dried, cured meat from Southern Africa is made by marinating beef or game meats in vinegar and spices and then air-drying it over several days. It’s a high-protein snack or emergency food you will be glad you know how to make. I’ll take you step-by-step through the traditional air-drying recipe and also try methods in two different dehydrators to compare the results. Stick around to the end, and I’ll show you how I made the special biltong box that I used here. You likely have everything you need to build it right now or after any disaster.

    What You Need
    You’ll need some basic equipment to process and dry the meat.

    • A sharp knife & cutting board
    • Mortar and pestle or device to grind down the spices
    • Small pan for warming the spices.
    • Bowl to marinate.
    • Dehydrators or biltong box. (Remember, at the end I will show you how to build a Biltong box for mere pennies out of materials you may already have on hand).

    Ingredients

    • 4 pounds beef (sirloin, top, or bottom round are good cuts for this. Favor slices with long sections of grain flowing in a single direction)
    • ¾ cup vinegar
    • ¼ cup red wine vinegar (This is the blend that I use for just a hint of residual flavor. You can use any vinegar except balsamic.)
    • 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
    • 4 Tablespoons coarse salt (If using granulated salt, reduce to 3 Tablespoons. Recipes will vary wildly online along with complaints about being too salty. Minimally, use a half Tbsp per pound. I find that
    • 1 Tablespoon of coarse salt (Coarse, Flake, Himalayan, or Sea Salt) per pound is best.)
    • 2 Tablespoons coriander seeds
    • 1 Tablespoons black peppercorns
    • 1 Tablespoons brown sugar
      Optional: chili flakes, fennel seeds (I use a teaspoon of each)

    Prepare the Meat
    Cut the Beef: Remove most of the fat and any gristle from the meat. Slice the beef into strips approximately 1 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and up to 8 inches long. You see here the grain and my meat ended up being two pieces. I thought it was one piece when I bought it. That means my Biltong can only be as long as the cutting with the grain will allow. Ideally you want it longer. I slice these pieces with the meat’s grain, so I can cut the finished dry product against the grain. That will provide me with less chewy, tender pieces. This specific cut ensures that the meat cures properly and has the desired texture and flavor.

    Marinade for Biltong

    Marinate the Meat
    Immerse the meat in the ¾ cup vinegar, ¼ cup red wine vinegar, and 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce in a large container or bowl. Mix by hand to ensure full coverage of the liquid. Cover and set aside. Marinate the meat strips in the mixture for 3 to 4 hours to begin the curing process.

    After at least 4 hours have passed, remove the meat strips from the vinegar mixture, squeeze, and pat dry with paper towels to remove excess moisture. Reserve the vinegar mixture for later.

    Season the Meat
    Toast coriander seeds and any other spices in a dry pan, but not the peppercorns. This will only take a few minutes, and you should really start to smell them as they release their aroma. They may toast a bit. That’s fine, but don’t let them burn. This process awakens the oils in the spices. Place them in your spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Add in the peppercorns. Then, rough grind them, leaving some seed shells intact. Add the coarse salt and grind a little more. Then add the brown sugar. There’s no need to grind that in, just mix it with your hand.

    Pull out 2 tablespoons of the dry spices for later use. Place the remaining spices thoroughly over the meat strips. Work it over the pieces with your hands, ensuring an even coating. I then place it all in a ziplock bag and mix it around from the outside. Let it rest for another 3 hours.

    Rinse and Hang the Meat
    Once that time has passed, rinse the spiced meat strips in the reserved vinegar mixture to remove excess spices. Then, I like to grind that reserved tablespoon of spices further and add it back to the meat. This gives it a nice seasoned crust. If you have longer strips, you would want to weigh them at this point because you are looking for a 50% reduction in weight for your finished process as it dries. Because my strips are so small from accurate grain cutting, I don’t need to weigh these. Run your wire through one end of each strip and hang them in your biltong box in a well-ventilated, isolated place for 5 to 10 days. I’ll also be placing them in two different dehydrators on their lowest settings so I can compare the results. With the biltong box, I am able to poke the wire through the top of the box and give it a few twists to create a sort of meat locker I can seal by closing up.

    The main thing you want here is to avoid direct sunlight and have a good airflow. This is why I added the screen to the box, which I will show you how to do later. That will allow airflow through the sealed box and keep out any unwanted insects. After sealing the box, I placed all the drying devices in the garage and put a fan on a low setting at the lower vent of the biltong box to maintain a constant airflow.

    The general time in a dehydrator to obtain the desired results is 24-36 hours. It will depend on the thickness of the meat and the fat content. You want the temperature to be between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent the meat from drying too quickly. My garage is right in that perfect zone between 80 and 85 degrees during the Summer.

    Check for Readiness
    The biltong is ready when it has shrunk to half its original size, feels firm yet flexible when gently squeezed, and has attained a dark red or burgundy interior color. This slight flexibility indicates the ideal residual moisture level, ensuring the biltong is neither too dry nor too hard. Again, with longer strips, you can weigh it again when you think it is done. You want somewhere near a 50% reduction in weight.

    Slicing & Storage
    After completing the drying and aging process, slice the biltong into bite-sized pieces or strips when ready to eat. Cutting against the grain will give you shorter, more tender pieces while cutting with the grain will result in longer, chewier pieces. You’ll want to slice it as thin as you can with the sharpest knife you have. The dryer it is the more you may struggle. I can also see using a sandwich meat slicer to get incredibly thin slices for sandwiches. Slice only as you eat and consume it because slicing it will expose the center of the meat that had less exposure to the curing and preserving ingredients and will increase surface exposure to air. It’s best to store the biltong in its seasoned and dried whole form and slice only when you plan to consume it within a week.

    I found the dehydrator without temperature control, over 100 degrees, and after 3 days, had a more jerky-like consistency and lacked the burgundy-colored interior. The dehydrator with a temperature control set between 80 and 85 degrees for 4 days was more like traditional Bitlong. The best was easily the Bitlong Box I will show you how to make in a moment. That was approximately 85 degrees for 5 days, but probably could have gone to 7 or 10 days for a dryer product. The taste is difficult to describe. It’s tender, with a light flavor from the spices. I could see adding maybe a little red wine to the marinade. It reminded me of a lightly cured meat like a Jamon, Prosciutto, or more accurately a Bresaola Punta D’Anca. If you’ve never had any of those, just think of it as a super mild salami, though that flavor note may have come more from the fennel I added then the coriander.

    I could definitely see myself eating this as a good source of protein on any hike. It’s a lot less salty than traditional jerky tends to be. If you don’t eat it all immediately (and it tastes so good you might), store the whole, unsliced biltong in a cool, dry place. It can be frozen to last up to a year. It will last a week or longer when stored in a paper bag or jar. Pack it in salt for long-term storage to further dry it, inhibit bacterial growth, and extend its shelf life to several weeks or even months.

    Biltong Box
    To build the biltong box that I used in this video, you only need a box of some kind, the ability to cut holes in it, some wire, some screening material, and either some glue or duct tape. You can use a wooden box or plastic container if you want to build something sturdier. The goal is to allow the circulation of dry air while keeping out any flys or other bugs. I like using screens, so I simply cut about a ½” slit about 6-8 inches long on one side’s bottom.

    I will repeat this cut on the opposite wall but a few inches down from the top. The precise cut of the whole is up to you. We’ll be covering it, so I don’t feel the need to measure here. Then, I can cover that whole from the inside with a piece of screening material and some duct tape around the edges. These wholes will facilitate circulation and keep any bugs out. If your environment isn’t warm enough, I have seen some people put a light bulb or heating source in the box to achieve the 70 to 80 degrees necessary. My garage in the summer is pushing the outer limits of that range, so I’ll just use a simple fan to push a gentle breeze through. I have also seen people hook up battery fans or small PC fans to achieve that gentle circulation of air from the bottom through to the top. Your circumstances, temperature, and humidity will have to guide you on the best practice for your situation, but remember that this technique of making biltong is centuries old. That’s long before electricity and only requires you to have a bug-free environment and circulating dry air.

    To hang the meat, I simply run a wire through one end, poke both ends of that wire through the top of the box with the open flaps facing me, and twist it at the top to secure it. I hang each piece so they’re not touching, then close the flaps, seal it with some tape, and come back in about five to seven days to take a look and test the doneness. It couldn’t be simpler.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • Emergency Bread

    Emergency Bread

    Just three ingredients (two if you don’t count water) and hundreds of variations that could save your life.

    In this post, we’ll show you how to make emergency bread. Unleavened bread, made with just flour, salt, and water, is incredibly simple and essential in times of crisis. This versatile recipe can be cooked over open flames or portable stoves, providing crucial sustenance when traditional baking isn’t possible. I’ll take you step-by-step through the process anyone can do, but stick around to the end, and I’ll tell you about countless variations that can make each batch unique.

    What You Need:

    This emergency bread is a life-saver in its simplicity. You need only three ingredients (two if you don’t count water as an ingredient. For our batch, you will need: 

    2 cups of flour (any type)
    1/2 teaspoon of salt
    1/2 cup of water

    Instructions:

    Combine Flour & Salt: Reserve a small amount of the flour for later use. Combine the salt and most of the flour in a mixing bowl.

    Add Water: Add the water to the flour, stirring until the mixture becomes crumbly or begins to clump together. Start with the specified amount of water and add more as needed. Different flours like whole wheat, rye, sorghum, barley, or stone ground may require more water to get the same dough ball consistency and elasticity. I use a spatula to start the process of mixing the ingredients.

    Knead the Dough: Knead the dough with your hands against the bottom of the bowl until it feels smooth and elastic (3-5 minutes). Add more flour if the dough feels sticky. Add more water by the Tablespoon if you can’t get it to clump together.

    Let It Rest: Cover the dough and let it rest for 15-30 minutes to allow the gluten to relax.

    Heat the Pan: Start heating your flat cast iron pan over your heat source. My preference is a flat cast iron skillet, but any solid cooking surface will do. Traditionally, people have used anything from shovels to rocks that can withstand the heat of an open fire.

    Shape the Dough: Divide the dough into walnut-sized lumps or slightly smaller pieces. That would be a ball that is approximately 2 inches round or less. Roll the balls between your hands to make them round and eliminate creases. Squeezing them slightly will help pull the dough together. You should get 8-10 dough pieces with two cups of flour.

    Sprinkle a pinch of the flour you previously set aside on a flat surface (countertop or large wooden cutting board) and press one lump of dough into a flat circle using your hands.  Shape the dough into a thin circle by pressing and stretching with your hands. Aim for it to be as thin as possible without tearing the dough. If you have a rolling pin or dowel, you could use that. If you have a tortilla press, you could use that. You can even just mash it and press it as flat as you can between two flat surfaces. The thinness allows you to cook it fast and all the way through.

    Cook the Flatbread: Check the temperature of your pan by dropping a small amount of water on it. It should sizzle and evaporate quickly. You want the pan to be as hot as possible to facilitate the swift cooking.

    Once the pan is hot enough, transfer the flattened dough onto it. Cook the flatbread, keeping a close eye on it. Flip it when the edges start to curl up or appear dry. You can use a spatula, fork, tongs, or even quick fingers to flip it. Continue cooking until the bread browns slightly on each side. Undercooking it will just give you a doughier textured bread. Overcooking it will make it drier and crispier. A little burn on it actually imparts a little flavor to it.

    Serve Warm: Once cooked, transfer the flatbread to a plate covered with a hand towel or cloth napkin to keep it warm and soft. Repeat the process with the remaining dough pieces.

    Variations: If you add just one ingredient—a handful of herbs, some wild yeast, or seeds you gathered—or even change the cooking method by frying the dough in oil or dropping it into salted boiling water, you have a completely different bread. The variations of ingredients and cooking methods are limitless.

    Rising Version: You need an agent, either yeast pulled from the air as we did in another video or a combination of leavening agents like baking soda and an acid. Here’s the same recipe, but I added a  1/2 teaspoon of baking powder, a 1/2 teaspoon of lemon juice, and then the water. I could substitute the same amount of vinegar for the lemon juice. That small amount of lemon juice does impart just a hint of flavor to the bread. If that bothers you, you could use a different acid, like the equivalent amount of vinegar. I can set the dough aside for about 20 minutes, and when I cook it, the bread will have a little rise. It won’t be as flat.

    Nutritious Version: Add partially ground seeds to the dough. Note that seeds may affect the texture of the final bread. Many types of seeds and grains can be foraged from nature or your garden: amaranth, Chia, Buckwheat, Sorghum, Barley, Sunflower Seeds, or Millet. Here, I am partially grinding up some Buckwheat and Chia seeds and simply working them into the dough. I can cook it in any of the same ways to get a little more flavor and nutrition from the bread.

    Fry Bread Version: When it comes to cooking variations for different styles of bread, this basic recipe isn’t too different from traditional fried bread. Consider adding a leavening agent, lightly salting, or dusting the hot fried bread with cinnamon and sugar. Replace the flat cast iron pan with a frying pan. Use any available cooking oil, butter, or tallow to fry the bread instead of dry-cooking it. Here, I use bacon grease. Adjust the heat as needed to prevent burning. Fry until the bread is golden on the outside.

    Boiled Version: If you divide the 2-inch round pieces into quarters, you can drop each into a boiling pot of salted water for about two minutes. When you take them out, lightly salt them and eat them as they are, or put them on your hot, flat cooking surface to brown them slightly. Cooking them in this way will change the gluten structures and result in your emergency bread tasting more like a pretzel or bagel.

    Changing it with any of these variations or variations of your own will keep you from suffering food fatigue if you ever have to survive solely on these emergency breads. These recipes will give you a baseline to which you can add your own unique twists and additions. Consider using your finished flatbread as you do other breads. Eat it alone or use it as a carrier for other foods: dip it in hummus, put meat in it like a taco, spread peanut butter on it, or whatever else you can imagine. Remember, knowing how to make this emergency flatbread is a valuable survival skill, especially when traditional baking methods are unavailable.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • 7 Plants To Grow Indoors Year-Around

    7 Plants To Grow Indoors Year-Around

    In this blog, I will show you seven easy-to-grow indoor plants with plenty of variations. The beauty of an indoor garden is that you can eat fresh, nutrition-packed plants and vegetables all year long. While an indoor garden would have to be pretty large to sustain you, it can stretch your stored food and add flavor and micronutrients to your meals. Some of these plants you could plant right now and be eating from in as little as a few weeks. Stick around to the end because there are some considerations to be made for your indoor garden to be successful, which I will tell you about.

    HERBS

    I’ll start with the easiest and most successful here, and that has to be herbs. These are commonly sold in kits for kids, so you know they can grow quickly and easily. The problem I have with herbs outdoors that growing them indoors solves is that insects love to eat them, too. Also, it can get scorching where I am, resulting in leaf burns or the plant drying up. Indoors provides me with an environment where none of that is a problem. Herbs will not provide many calories, but they will give you lots of flavor, vitamins, and minerals. Basil, for instance, is a good source of vitamin K, providing about 177% of the Daily Value per 100 grams or one cup loosely packed.

    I grow Basil, Thyme, and Oregano. While I could start these from seed quite easily, my local nursery was having a sale. If you simply repot their 4” plants, you can just grow them like any other houseplant on your window sill. I will heavily harvest them once they are well established to keep them in the smaller size. You never need to replant them. You only need to remember to keep them watered regularly. I find a mister is very helpful as a reminder and as an easy way to apply water directly to the base of the plant. With consistent water and light, you can harvest and use fresh or dry herbs for later use.

    ALLIUM

    Garlic Onions Alliums

    Plants in the allium family include onions, scallions, chives, garlic, shallots, and all those other varieties of onion-like plants. I think some of the best suitable for containers are garlic, green onions, and chives, which I planted here because these can grow very tightly together, the greens can be harvested year around, and scallions, for instance, have twice the daily recommended amount of vitamin K for adults, per 100 grams or 1 cup. Regarding the closeness of planting, many people don’t realize you can plant garlic or green onions within just a few inches of each other to pack a lot into a small space.

    I am growing scallions and garlic from reclaimed kitchen scraps, which I show you how to do in another video linked in the comments and description section below. In between these, I plant some chives, which I have always struggled to keep alive outdoors. I will harvest the greens continually for the next several months to flavor everything from soups to salads to rice.

    LETTUCE

    Lettuce

    We are still in the so easy to grow even a kid can do it category with lettuce. Lettuce varieties, including Crisphead, Butterhead, Looseleaf, and Romaine, are incredibly easy to grow indoors, requiring minimal space and care. Their adaptability and quick growth make them perfect for indoor gardening enthusiasts looking for fresh, homegrown greens. To do this, simply fill some windowsill-sized planters with potting soil and sow your seeds and water. I cover it with a clear plastic wrap to keep the moisture in and a little warmth. This will help your seeds germinate faster. The biggest advantages for me to growing lettuce indoors are the higher yield and the fact that I can continually harvest the outside leaves. Insects and animals love the tender lettuce leaves, and they can easily wipe out an outdoor garden overnight. That won’t happen with an indoor garden.

    For some varieties, you can start trimming the outside leaves or harvesting the entire plant in just 30 days, so you are never that far from healthy green salads. One trick you need to know is that most plants benefit from a little wind circulation. It helps the plant breathe, keeps it from getting spindly, and forces the stalk to strengthen. To accomplish this, I use a small fan once per day for a little while.

    MICROGREENS

    Microgreens

    If soil or space is a major consideration for your indoor garden, consider microgreens. They require only water to sprout, but if you give them a little soil, even a 1/4 inch, they will grow stronger, slightly taller, and more robust. Microgreens are smaller versions of larger plants. They can pack a lot of nutrition in their sprout form. If you think lettuce grows fast, you can have microgreens in just a few days.

    You can grow pea shoots, sunflower sprouts, kale, mustard greens, Swiss chard, radishes, beetroots, broccoli, pea shoots, basil, coriander, and cress as microgreens on your windowsill. I have a blend of broccoli, radish, arugula, cress, cabbage, and mustard seeds, which I sometimes sprout on the counter. I’ll densely sow these into a small tray of soil, water well, and let them grow. They will start to sprout in just a few days. When they are about an inch or two tall, I will clip them, enjoy them on salads, put the spent dirt into my garden, and plant a new batch to keep a continual supply. Microgreens will also grow with considerably less light and almost no light at all. They will need a little warmth to germinate, but it’s definitely a window sill plant you can grow through winter.

    BUSH PEPPERS

    Windowsill peppers

    Peppers pack a lot of Vitamin C and A, making them excellent sources for these immune and skin health vitamins. Container or patio varieties, as they are often referred to, are dense, smaller plants that can have incredibly high yields. These plants will favor a larger and deeper pot for a more dense and well-established root system, and they like warmer temperatures to encourage fruit setting, but when they do set fruit, you can have very bountiful harvests. Most pepper plants can be trimmed to stay relatively compact, so there aren’t many limitations on the type of pepper plant you choose; however, a variety labeled for patio, compact, or container will guarantee you a high yield, low-space requiring variety. Here, I plant five sets of Peruvian Biquinho peppers. These little tear-drop-shaped peppers grow in a compact bush, are great for pickling, and are sweet with just an occasional kiss of heat. I will also cover them with plastic wrap to keep them moist and slightly warmer to encourage germination and sprouting. Here they are after about two weeks of growth. You will need to manually pollinate peppers once flowers appear. This can be done by gently rubbing a cotton swab in each flower that appears. Do this for a couple of days, and the fruit should be set.

    DETERMINATE TOMATOES

    Tomato Sprouts

    If you have ever had your tomato plants wiped out overnight by tomato hornworms, cutworms, rodents, deer, slugs, beetles, or a sudden frost or hail storm, you know how frustrating growing the tender fruit can be. Like peppers, there are thousands of varieties of tomatoes. Some are more suitable for small spaces than others. You want to specifically look for bush varieties called “determinate.” This means they grow to a specific size, they are busy, and the fruit tends to ripen all at once. Don’t think that all cherry tomatoes are indoor plants because their fruit is smaller. Tomatoes are viny plants, and indeterminate varieties set their fruit along vines that can stretch up to 12 feet. Specifically, look for patio or bush varieties and smaller size fruits for window setups. That said, a determinate variety of Roma or Rio Grande can be potted into a larger pot and grown quite successfully in a patio window because it is determinate and not a sprawling vine. When it comes to planting tomatoes, you want to plant the entire plant except for the top 2 sets of leaves. The buried leaves will convert to roots and give your plant good structure and nutrient uptake. You will need to manually pollinate tomatoes and peppers once flowers appear. This can be done by gently rubbing a cotton swab in each flower that appears. Do this for a couple of days, and the fruit should set.

    RADISHES/BEETS

    Beets need more space than radishes, but either will provide you with leafy greens to eat and a compact root vegetable, which makes them both perfect for a windowsill garden. You will want a variety that grows no larger than 6 inches in depth and has enough room to provide the plants adequate spacing, but you will find that you can produce quite a few in a tiny area. Don’t forget to harvest the green leaves, as well, choosing leaves from the outside and never harvesting too many at once. Most varieties will mature in as little as 30 days. The same plastic wrap trick to encourage germination will result in better germination.

    SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS

    There are a few things to consider when trying to establish your indoor garden, which I have to tell you about. Consider space, light, moisture, soil, and temperature when setting up your indoor garden. Ensure your plants get adequate sunlight without overheating or scorching. Keep the air circulating, and watch out for pests. Avoid over-watering to prevent root rot and gnats. If infested, move plants outside. Some treatments are effective for gnats and tiny bugs. These simple sticky traps are very effective. The gnats are attracted to the bright color and then get stuck.

    Another consideration is that your plants will require consistent watering. You don’t need an elaborate misting system or a hefty pour of water, but the plants need daily water to work with. I use a little mister to give them some up close daily watering. If the plants appear to need more water or are wilting, I can give them some extra, or I can pull back and give them less if they are showing signs of overwatering, like yellowing leaves. Because you are using such a small amount of soil, ensure it’s good indoor potting soil and apply some mild plant fertilizer weekly. Bagged soils meant for outdoor use may contain either manures or insects, and you don’t want to smell those or introduce them into your home. If you do get starter plants from the store, I advise you to remove as much of the original soil from the roots as possible and then transplant them into your indoor potting soil. The starter blend of soil may contain unwanted insect eggs or manure.

    PLANTS MENTIONED IN THIS POST:

    Herbs for Indoors: https://bit.ly/3UeHyVr

    Allium: https://bit.ly/4aPmlZp 

    Microgreens: https://bit.ly/4aTDGAi

    Bush Peppers: https://bit.ly/4aSKTAP

    Tomatoes (Determinate): https://bit.ly/4ddz2ii

    Radishes/Beets: https://bit.ly/3UBnFbB

  • 9 Vegetables You Can Re-Grow From Scraps

    9 Vegetables You Can Re-Grow From Scraps

    Here, we’ll delve into an ingenious method of utilizing kitchen waste to kickstart your indoor garden. Whether you’re limited by space or weather or simply looking to reduce food waste, growing plants from scraps in water or soil is a sustainable and cost-effective solution. We’ll explore nine different kitchen scraps, demonstrating how each can be easily propagated and nurtured to yield fresh produce right from your kitchen counter. Join me as I walk you through the step-by-step process, which is perfect for involving the whole family and introducing kids to the joys of gardening. Stick around until the end to uncover the secret of why this method yields healthier, more robust vegetables and herbs.

    Lettuce

    The easiest vegetable to grow from scraps is lettuce. You can use store-bought lettuce. Just slightly cut the discolored and oxidized end to expose new cells. Then, cut off the leaf portion, leaving approximately a two-inch stump. Place this stump in a cup jar or plate of water and change the water daily. Place this in a window with some sun exposure. You’ll witness new leaves sprout from the center within a few days. If you harvest the outside leaves sparingly, they will continue to grow and provide you with a constant supply of lettuce leaves for salads and sandwiches. The key is to change the water nearly daily. If you forget a day, that’s okay, but watch for any funky smells or gnats. If that happens, it is best to throw it out or attempt to plant it outside, as the plant will be in defensive mode and putting all its energy into fighting the mold instead of growing. If you move it to soil indoors, it will be less susceptible to molds or funkiness, and it can often still grow into a healthy plant. You can harvest the leaves from the outside once they reach a mature size. The advantage is that your indoor lettuce will be pest-free.

    Celery 

    To regrow celery from scraps, begin by cutting off the last two inches or so of the base of a bunch of celery and placing it in a shallow dish of water. Ensure the cut end is submerged and change the water every few days to keep it fresh. Over time, you’ll notice new growth emerging from the center of the celery base. These new shoots will gradually develop into fresh celery stalks, ready for harvest. Changing out the water daily can be a hassle, but it is necessary for a window sill grow environment. After just a few days, you will notice a new celery stalk growing from the center. You can continue to grow it in this manner, but I prefer to pot it or plant it outside when it gets to an inch or more tall. Celery plants can grow to a large size and are hearty against pests. To do this, simply remove some of the outer stalks, put it in some soil, and remember to water it. I repot my celery in either a small pot or a 5-gallon bucket with holes drilled in the bottom for drainage. 

    Green Onions/Scallions 

    To regenerate green onions or scallions from scraps, simply place the roots of the onions in a glass of water, ensuring that they are submerged. It’s as easy as that. When I cut them, I leave about two inches to the bottom with the roots showing. Green onions are probably the easiest and most rewarding to grow and will easily thrive through a day or two of missing the daily water change. Here, I will use a rock to prop the onions up with the white part beneath the water. Position the glass in a sunny spot, as adequate sunlight is essential for the growth process. Remember to change the water every few days to prevent stagnation and maintain freshness. As time passes, you’ll observe new growth sprouting from the roots. With this method, you can continually harvest fresh green onions by trimming the tops as needed while allowing the roots to remain in the water, ensuring a steady supply of this flavorful and versatile ingredient for your culinary endeavors. When I feel they are a couple of inches tall, I transplant them to some soil. This will encourage them to grow even more green, and I don’t have to remember to change the water daily. You can transplant these directly into the soil indoors or outside.

    Carrots 

    More accurately, carrot greens because it is highly unlikely that a carrot will regrow into a long tapered root. The greens, however, are quite prolific, and if you have never eaten carrot greens, you should. Although often overlooked and discarded, carrot greens are nutritionally dense, containing vitamins such as K and A, antioxidants like vitamin C, and minerals including calcium, potassium, and magnesium, making them a valuable addition to your diet. To propagate carrots from scraps, cut off the tops of the carrots, leaving a small portion, an inch or two, of the green foliage end intact. Place these carrot tops in a shallow dish of water, ensuring that the cut ends are submerged. Position the dish in a well-lit area, preferably near a window with ample sunlight. Over time, you will notice new green tops emerging from the cut ends of the carrots. These fresh green shoots are edible and can be harvested as needed to add a burst of flavor and color to your dishes. You will also notice roots developing. A new carrot will not grow from this, even if you transplant it into the soil. The greens will be more prolific and are an appealing, edible source of great nutrients with a slight carrot taste. This plant will become bushier with greens in just a few weeks.

    Garlic 

    If you leave a garlic clove for too long, it’s likely to throw out a shoot. Garlic is so easy to grow; you can probably put a clove in the ground, and you’ll have a garlic bulb in nine months. That’s the only downside: it takes nine months to mature and is typically planted in October to winter over. If you do this, plant individual garlic cloves with the pointed end up in the soil. Like the carrots, the green leaves are edible with a more delicate garlic flavor and less pungency. So, you can let it grow on your windowsill simply to harvest the greens periodically, but you would have to change the water almost daily. You can put a clove in water or the whole bulb, propped with toothpicks. The freshness of the garlic matters. If your cloves are brown, dry, or pruned in any way, it may be too old to plant. After roots and greens have sprouted from the cloves, I can pull off a few leaves or break them apart and plant each clove in the ground or my windowsill garden. You can also plant the rooted and green stalked bulbs outdoors, and in nine months, with proper care, you’ll have a new head of garlic.

    Sweet Potatoes

    This is one of the easiest methods to propagate sweet potatoes, but the trick is to get an organic sweet potato that hasn’t been sprayed with sprout inhibitors like Chloropropham. I cover a few different methods to propagate slips in detail in another video, but the best method is simply placing it in water. While the leaves of the sweet potato are edible, unlike a potato, you have to put these slips that will appear in the ground to grow sweet potatoes. Sweet potatoes are a viny plant with a tuber underground. Once these slips have developed roots, they can be gently separated from the parent plant and planted directly into the soil. In just a few weeks, you will have beautiful vines. In a little over four months, you should have sweet potatoes. You can harvest the potatoes and bury the vines and any small sweet potatoes; sweet potatoes are produced yearly in the same spot. To get them to root and sprout shoots, simply place toothpicks around the sweet potato to suspend the bottom third in water. In a few weeks, you will see shoots coming off. If you don’t, it’s likely your sweet potatoes have been sprayed with an anti-sprouting agent. Even organic potatoes may have picked up Chlorpropham through cross-contamination. If there’s no rot or mushiness, you can often still get them to grow by panting them outdoors in soil. They will either grow or decay in the soil with this method. Transplant them outdoors or in a big pot indoors or outdoors. The vines are excellent ground cover; the sweet potatoes will continue growing if you leave them in the ground. They will not get woody like some vegetables if they grow very large.

    Ginger/Turmeric 

    These root vegetables from the store can be tricky to grow because they are often also sprayed with chemicals to prevent sprouting and extend shelf life, so it’s a bit of trial and error until you find a good source. I also put this nearly last because both Turmeric and Ginger favor humid and hot conditions, so some may have difficulty nurturing a healthy plant. Sometimes, it’s just too old when it comes from the store. Look for organic roots in the store that already look like they are forming a shoot. For this video, I was unable to get my turmeric to grow. It was simply too old to begin with. The ginger showed some green forming but never really developed any shoot growing from it. This is another one that if you can’t get it to grow in water, you might have better luck putting it directly in the soil. Plant a piece of ginger or turmeric root directly into moist soil, and new shoots will emerge. The leaves of both plants are edible and have a milder flavor than the roots. Harvest sparingly, and in a few months, you probably will have a root large enough to harvest. Use some and replant the rest.  

    Herbs

    Don’t overlook herbs in your selection of foods to grow indoors on a windowsill. Mint, parsley, basil, cilantro, rosemary, and chives will all grow relatively well in just some water. These herbs can pack a lot of nutrients like iron, calcium, potassium, and antioxidants, and they can flavor your bland foods. Simply place fresh cuttings of these herbs in glasses of water on your windowsill, ensuring the stems are submerged, and change the water regularly to promote healthy root growth. This will also keep your store-bought herbs fresher for longer. 

    —

    Here’s the secret as to why this will give you healthier and better vegetables. Growing plants indoors from scraps you would have thrown away saves you money and allows you to control a pest-free environment for your plants until they are hearty enough for transplant. If you have ever had an infestation of bugs, snails, or caterpillars, you know they can wipe out a garden overnight. Even if you utilize one of these methods to create just a few onion greens, herbs for flavor, or lettuce leaves, you’ll be satisfied knowing that there aren’t hundreds of toxic chemicals sprayed on your food. It won’t be enough to survive on, but it might be enough to get a jump start on an incredible garden when conditions outside improve.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • Egg Shell Sprouting

    Here, we’ll explore a clever and sustainable way to start plants using eggshells. You can do this to get a jump on your spring garden, even if there’s snow on the ground or you have freezing temperatures outside. Turning kitchen waste into a thriving garden is eco-friendly and cost-effective. This is also a great activity to involve your kids in and introduce them to gardening. I will guide you step-by-step through this process and stick around to the end to discover why this method will give you better results and bigger, meatier vegetables. 

    Start by saving your eggshells after cooking or baking. Rinse them thoroughly to remove any residue. You will have to be more careful with how you open your eggs. The best eggshells for this process will just have the top taken off. I find that using a sharp knife to open the top areas is the easiest method for removing the top, instead of cracking them in half.

    Rinsing the shell’s interior and removing the inner membrane are essential steps in preparing the eggshells for planting. This process helps to remove any remaining residue, providing a clean environment for the seeds to germinate and grow. Once the shells are thoroughly cleaned, discarding the inner membrane is essential, as it can hinder the growth of the seedlings if left inside the shell.

    After cleaning the eggshells, the next step is to create drainage holes in the bottom of each shell. Carefully poke a small hole in the bottom using a push pin or safety pin. This simple but crucial step allows excess water to drain out of the eggshell, preventing waterlogging and promoting healthy root growth in the seedlings.

    To prep the egg crate, simply cutoff the tab, then cut it in half. You can discard the tab but keep the lid, as we will use it later in this process as an added base.

    Once the eggshells are prepped and ready, it’s time to label each one. This step is often overlooked but is incredibly important, especially if you’re planting multiple types of seeds. Writing directly on the eggshell with a permanent marker ensures you can easily identify each plant as it grows. This prevents confusion and helps you keep track of your seedlings, particularly since many plants can look similar in their early stages of growth.

    With the eggshells labeled, they can now be placed in an egg carton or seedling tray for easy organization. This keeps the eggshells stable and makes it convenient to move them around as needed, whether for watering or exposure to sunlight. Be sure to choose a high-quality potting mix suitable for the types of plants you’re growing.

    Next, fill each eggshell with potting soil, leaving some space at the top for the seeds. The soil provides the necessary nutrients and support for the seeds to germinate and develop into healthy seedlings. 

    Once the eggshells are filled with soil, it’s time to plant the seeds.  For this example, I am using basil, chives, dill, sweet peppers, and lettuce, so I won’t need to cull any plants but the peppers. Plants like peppers, tomatoes, or squash are solitary plants. Multiple seedlings would compete for resources, and they would all end up smaller than when planted individually. If you can’t bear to throw out a plant, you can cull the seedlings into their own eggshell with their own potting soil to allow them to be planted later in your garden. Whether you sow herbs, flowers, or vegetables, gently press the seeds into the soil-filled eggshells according to the planting instructions for each specific plant variety. I plant about three seeds per eggshell of the non-bunching plants, and more of the ones that grow tightly together are fine. Then, depending on the type of plant, I may cull out two of the seedlings and leave the best plant in the eggshell.

    After planting, lightly water the soil to moisten it. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to rotting seeds or seedlings. A gentle sprinkle of water is usually sufficient to hydrate the soil without saturating it.

    I loosely cover the eggshells with plastic wrap at this early stage. This will trap the moisture inside and keep the seedlings slightly warmer. Seeds need a certain level of warmth and moisture, so if you are doing this in the winter when temperatures on window sills may be low, you won’t want to skip this step. This will also keep you from having to water twice daily. The environment will encourage them to grow faster. Placing the base in the crate’s lid will help keep the plastic down on top of the eggs.

    Place the eggshell seedlings near a sunny window or under a grow light. You will want the window to receive as much direct sunlight as possible. Even in the heat of summer, there is little chance of cooking the seed with this method. Pepper seeds, for instance, require a soil temperature above 80 degrees, so basically like a sauna.

    Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist, but with this plastic wrap method you likely won’t need to water. Depending upon what you planted, you should see seedlings within a few days. Once they are all showing their first set of leaves, remove the plastic wrap. Different seeds will have different germination rates. Some will sprout in mere days, whereas a pepper seed can take up to 21 days. Once the seedlings have grown a few inches or have a hearty set of leaves like this basil, you can transfer them eggshells and all to your garden area or a larger pot. If I were planting these outdoors where snails or other critters might eat them, I would wait until they are at least two inches. Because I am planting these indoors, I can put them right in my indoor pot and then just make sure they are watered frequently. To do this, you will want to squeeze the shell gently so it breaks in multiple places. That will allow the roots to escape the shell. You definitely want to make sure the bottom is broken off so the roots can dig deep. I will also plant the chives, though I should probably wait to see more sprouts coming up. Give them a very good watering at this stage.

    As your plants grow, ensure they receive adequate sunlight and water. Keep an eye out for any signs of pests or diseases and address them promptly to ensure the health of your plants. Gradually acclimate your seedlings to outdoor conditions if you plan to transplant them into your garden. This can be done by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor elements over several days. I typically put my plants out when warm enough for an hour’s worth of shaded light for one day, then two hours the next day, and continue to work up the time. If night-time temperatures exceed 50 degrees, you can allow them to overnight. If you monitor them and see signs of stress, yellowing, or drying out, bring them indoors and check moisture levels. By following these steps, you can enjoy the satisfaction of growing your own plants from seedlings in repurposed eggshells.

    Here’s why this will give you better vegetables. Over time, the calcium from the shells will break down in the soil. Calcium breakdown is a gradual process, but calcium is critical to the plant forming good cell walls and healthy skin. The roots of the plant will then take that calcium up. If you notice that your peppers or tomatoes get sun scorch marks or problems with the skin being thin, it may be because your soil lacks calcium. Calcium, crucial for vegetable plants, serves multiple vital functions. It contributes to strong cell wall development, enhancing the plant’s resistance against pathogens. Calcium activates specific enzymes that regulate growth processes and metabolic activities, and it facilitates the uptake of nitrate, an essential nutrient, ensuring efficient nutrient absorption and overall plant health.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • How to Make Cheese with 3 Simple Ingredients

    How to Make Cheese with 3 Simple Ingredients

    Here, I’ll demonstrate making cheeses with just three ingredients. Cheese making, an ancient skill, might seem daunting, but it’s simpler than you think. You likely have what you need to make this cheese right now. My first experience making cheese was a milk-wasting mishap, but I researched, dug out some old cookbooks, and found an easier way. Once you try it, you’ll want to make this part of your regular kitchen routine. You will even crave the better taste, and with the current recalls of so many commercial cheeses right now, you will appreciate knowing exactly what’s in your cheese. Your friends and family will be amazed at the flavor and your skills. I guarantee it. Let’s jump in.

    What you will need:

    • 2 Pots (one with lid)
    • Colander or mesh strainer
    • A spoon for stirring and straining. I prefer a slotted spoon for this.
    • Thermometer
    • Cheesecloth, muslin cloth, or similar fine cloth.

    Farm Cheese is probably the most straightforward and most traditional cheese. It gives you a somewhat crumbly cheese similar in texture to Boursin – a creamy, crumbly gourmet cheese perfect for crackers or toast. It has a melting point similar to ricotta.

    Ingredients:

    1. 1-gallon milk, whole pasteurized, is my preference.
      • You can use cow, goat, buffalo, camel, whatever, so long as it is whole milk. There’s a host of things you must account for if using unpasteurized milk, so I always use pasteurized milk. Ultra-pasteurized milk may be difficult to make into cheese because the high heat in pasteurization destabilizes the proteins and can challenge curd formation. That’s fine for a yogurt or sour cream but challenging for cheese.
    2. 1/2 cup white vinegar, red or white wine vinegar, or apple cider vinegar
    3. 2 teaspoon non-iodized salt. I’m using Himalayan sea salt.
      • Optional herbs: fresh dill, chives, basil, nettles, garlic leaves, or other green herbs, finely chopped. I’m using some chives, a garlic leaf, and some parsley that I will finely chop.

    Instructions:

    In a large pot, gently heat the milk until it is just under a boil at around 190 degrees (88 Celsius), stirring occasionally. If you are using a thermometer, great. If you don’t have one, when the milk is around this temperature, you will see frothy bubbles forming on the side, and steam will come off it when you stir it. Heating the milk accelerates the coagulation process.

    When 190 degrees is attained, turn off the heat.
    If you don’t gently stir with consistency, your milk at this temperature will scald an brown a bit on the bottom. A little is okay, and will not change the flavor of your cheese. You can pick out larger strands later. Too much scalding, however, will negatively affect curd toughness, texture, and flavor.

    Pour the vinegar into the milk

    Slowly pour in the vinegar while stirring the milk. This will cause curds to form immediately.
    Put the lid on the pot and allow the milk to rest undisturbed for 15 minutes.

    Cover a colander or strainer over a large bowl or pot with a damp cheesecloth or a thin, damp, clean dish towel. Pour the curds into the cheesecloth-covered colander. The whey, the liquid part of the mixture, will drain into the bowl beneath, while the curds will be caught in the cheesecloth.

    PROTIP: If you are trying to get more protein in your diet, don’t throw out this whey. Store it in the refrigerator for up to a week. Whey is versatile in its uses. It can be used to enhance baking recipes by replacing water or milk, add protein to smoothies, enrich soups and stews as a broth, tenderize meat and vegetables in marinades, thicken gravies, aid in soaking grains and beans, contribute to soap making, and even benefit outdoor plants such as tomatoes and hydrangeas when poured onto the soil.

    Add the herbs to the curds if desired.
    Add the salt to the mixture and mix well.
    Gather the cheesecloth around the curds and gently squeeze and twist to remove excess moisture. I like to twist the ends around a spoon for this process, then gently squeeze with my hands. Once the curds are sufficiently drained, they will have a dry, crumbly texture suitable for farmer cheese. For a creamier consistency, mix in some reserved whey with the curds.

    To shape the cheese, keep it wrapped in cheesecloth and mold it into a mound on a plate. You will need to loosen the cheesecloth slightly. Place another plate on top and press down, slowly but firmly, to form a flat disc about 1 to 2 inches thick. Place a weighted object on top. Once it is shaped, place it, cheesecloth, and all in the ice water bath for 5 minutes. This will halt any enzymatic processes and help the cheese to keep its form. Remove from the ice bath, replace the plates, and put them in the refrigerator for approximately an hour before unwrapping the cheesecloth.

    That’s it. An easy cheese that requires only three ingredients: milk, vinegar, and salt. Don’t forget the byproduct of whey, which has its own set of uses. Cheese is a nutritious food that provides essential nutrients. This cheese will last for a week or more in the refrigerator, or you can freeze it. This recipe is so easy to make and requires so few ingredients that I put this into the category of a skill you will want to use once a month. Simple cheese making can be a regular routine for you that will ensure you have quality, fresh nutrients, and flavor, not to mention it will utterly amaze your friends and family.

  • 5 Ways To Preserve Eggs For Long-Term Storage

    5 Ways To Preserve Eggs For Long-Term Storage

    Here, we will walk you through five ways to preserve farm-fresh eggs for up to a year without refrigeration. I will launch right into the five methods, but you’ll want to stick around to the end to understand why knowing how to do this is so important. Let’s get cracking.

    WARNING: Avoid using store-bought eggs for the processes described in the video. Use farm-fresh eggs with intact bloom, resembling dried slime or tea stains. The bloom allows for breathability while guarding against bacteria. Store-bought eggs have their bloom removed and are chemically sanitized before sale, leading to a shorter shelf life of 2 to 3 weeks even when refrigerated.

    Mineral Oil Preservation – 9-12 months

    Mineral Oil preservation is by far the easiest method. For mineral oil preservation, use food-grade white mineral oil or light mineral oil from the drug store, which is safe for consumption.

    Washing the eggs: Washing the eggs removes most of the bloom, but your process is gentler than commercial operations that seek to sanitize the egg thoroughly. The preservation methods described here work with the bloom residue. There are different suggested methods for washing the eggs. The key is not to overwash them or soak them. I simply use the spray setting on my kitchen sink with warmish to hot water and then wipe them with a clean paper towel. This is the same wash technique I suggest for all the methods described in this video. Let air dry completely by setting them on a clean dish towel.

    Just a tablespoon of the mineral oil is probably enough to coat and cover a dozen eggs. Put that amount in your hands and thoroughly rub it around each egg. The oil will have been completely absorbed into the eggshell in a week or so, but this will make them, initially, pretty slick.

    Place the eggs, pointy end down, in clean egg cartons. The broader part of the egg you want at the top has the air chamber. If you store it with that broader base on the bottom, the yolk may work to the top and touch the shell, encouraging it to spoil. I like to use wax or parchment paper around each and store them in a jar with the pointed side down. This allows me also to write the date I put it away on the paper. The jar gives an added layer of protection from critters or eggshells cracking. Store eggs in a cool, dark place with 75% humidity for 9-12 months of long-term storage.

    Why this works: The shell of an egg serves as a protective barrier against bacteria and other pathogens while still allowing for the exchange of gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide, which is essential for the developing chick’s respiration. White or light mineral oil forms a protective coating on the eggshell, sealing pores, preventing moisture loss, inhibiting bacterial growth, and extending shelf life.

    Wax Preservation – 9-12 months

    This method is also easy, but I think it gives you a better seal around your eggs and doesn’t absorb into the egg like the oil may. To preserve eggs using wax, utilize either food-grade paraffin wax or organic beeswax. Begin by melting either beeswax or household paraffin wax until it becomes liquid. You want to make sure your wax is all-natural or FDA-approved, so you know you’re not putting potentially harmful chemicals on the shell, which could be absorbed into the egg. While the wax is melting, clean the eggs as directed earlier and allow them to dry completely.

    Once the wax is melted, carefully dip each egg into the wax, ensuring an even coating on all sides. Allow the wax to cool and harden around the egg, forming a protective layer. After the wax has solidified, store the eggs in a cool, dark place with consistent temperature and humidity levels.

    It is recommended to place the wax-coated eggs in fiber egg cartons, pointy end down, to prevent rolling and potential damage to the wax coating.

    Why this works: The wax acts as a barrier, sealing the pores of the eggshell and preventing moisture loss and bacterial contamination. Unlike the oil, it will not absorb into the shell. This protective layer extends the shelf life of the eggs for approximately 9 to 12 months under proper storage conditions.

    Isinglass Preservation – 9-12 months

    During World War I, this technique began to be used. Often, the solution of Isinglass was thicker and goopy, and the eggs were stored directly in it instead of just coating the eggs as I will do here. Their method resulted in some off-tastes in the egg so this method may have fallen out of fashion.

    Prepare the isinglass solution: Isinglass is a gelatin obtained from fish bladder membranes and commonly used in food preservation. Dissolve isinglass powder or sheets in water according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring that it is food-grade and safe for consumption. Here, I will use a premixed solution commonly used for brewing.

    Wash the eggs using the method detailed earlier. Allow them to air dry thoroughly. Dip each egg into the prepared solution, ensuring the entire surface is evenly coated. Alternatively, you can use a brush to apply the isinglass solution to the eggs. This is my preferred method, as it guarantees an even coating.

    After coating, allow the eggs to air dry completely. Once dry, place the eggs in clean egg cartons with the pointed end down or use the jar method previously described. Store the eggs in a cool, dark place with a humidity level of around 75%.

    Why this works: The isinglass solution forms a protective coating on the eggshell, sealing pores and inhibiting bacterial growth. It’s essentially adding a more thorough bloom. This helps to extend the shelf life of the eggs by preventing moisture loss and preserving their freshness.

    Wood Ash Preservation – 9-12 months

    Colonists and early settlers often used wood ash to preserve eggs. This technique, known as “water-glassing with wood ash,” involves coating eggs with a paste of wood ash to create a protective barrier on the eggshell.

    Prepare the wood ash solution: Collect wood ash from hardwood sources such as oak or maple. Ensure the wood ash is free from contaminants like charcoal or unburnt wood. Mix the wood ash with water to create a paste-like consistency. I use a standard wire mesh for the kitchen to sift out any particles.

    Clean the eggs as described earlier. Coat eggs with wood ash paste by dipping each egg into the prepared wood ash paste, ensuring the entire surface is evenly coated. Alternatively, you can use a brush to apply the wood ash paste to the eggs.

    After coating, allow the eggs to air dry completely. Once dry, place the eggs in clean egg cartons with the pointed end down or use the jar method previously described. Store the eggs in a cool, dark place with a humidity level of around 75%. Regularly check the storage area to maintain the appropriate temperature and humidity levels. Inspect the eggs for any signs of spoilage and discard any eggs that appear compromised.

    Like the other methods, wood ash paste preserves eggs by coating and sealing the shell, preventing air and bacteria from entering. The high pH and low moisture of wood ash also discourage spoilage.

    Pickling Lime Preservation – 12-18 months

    Prepare the pickling lime solution: Use non-chlorinated water or leave your water out on the counter for 24 hours to allow any chlorine to gas off. In a non-metallic container, mix pickling lime (calcium hydroxide) with water according to the recommended ratio provided by the manufacturer. If no ratio is provided, use 1 ounce per quart of water. Ensure that the pickling lime is food-grade and safe for consumption.

    Wash the eggs as previously described. Next, carefully submerge the eggs in the pickling lime solution, ensuring they are fully covered. Putting the eggs in the mixed solution instead of just pouring it on top is essential because you want to ensure that even the spots the eggs touch have been in contact with the lime solution. Ensure the container is covered to prevent evaporation and contamination.

    Store the eggs in a cool, dark place. The lime will fall out of suspension, clearing the water and leaving a lime powder residue over the tops of the eggs. This is fine.

    Why this works: The pickling lime solution creates a protective barrier on the eggshell, sealing pores and inhibiting bacterial growth. This helps to extend the shelf life of the eggs by preventing moisture loss and preserving their freshness.

    Why Preserve Eggs?

    You might have never thought of needing to preserve eggs, given the modern convenience of agricultural egg operations, supply chains, and modern refrigeration, but here’s why knowing how to preserve eggs is valuable information to have. The modern, fragile supply chain is susceptible to failure, and eggs are not always available throughout the year, so our ancestors needed to find ways to preserve them. Egg production depends on the length and temperature of the day, which affect the hens’ ovulation cycle. That’s why hens lay more eggs in spring when the days are long and warm and less in winter when the days are short and cold.

    To avoid running out of eggs or buying them too often, especially in winter, preserving some eggs when they are plentiful makes sense. If you are considering or have a small backyard egg-laying flock of your own, you’ll want to check out our video on that, which I will link to, and you’ll definitely want to know these five methods to preserve eggs without refrigeration. They all extend the shelf-life of eggs. With some of these methods, you might even be able to keep eggs for over 12 months.

    As always, stay safe out there.

  • Easy Apple Butter

    Easy Apple Butter

    & Pomegranate Jelly From Homemade Pectin

    Easy Homemade Apple Butter Family Recipe

    Here is the easiest Apple Butter recipe ever. It’s a flavorful spread that’s a multi-generational comfort food around my house during the holidays– apple harvesting season. In the second part of this post, I’ll also show you how to use homemade pectin to turn pomegranate fruit juice into a jelly that can last for months. Whether you’re aiming for homemade gifts or simply craving all the flavors of the fall season, these recipes are the answer. Join me as we elevate our skills and expand our culinary prepping skills. 

    Family Recipe Apple ButterAPPLE BUTTER
    Ingredients:
    Meat of a dozen or so apples (peeled, cored, and chopped)
    1/2 cup granulated sugar
    ½ cup brown sugar
    1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or 3 cinnamon sticks
    1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
    1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1 tablespoon lemon juice
    2 cups water
    Optional: 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

    Instructions:
    Peel applesPeel, core, and chop the apples into small pieces. The variety of apples you use can influence the flavor of your apple butter. I like to use a mix of apples to get a complex flavor. If you have a tree or your area is known for a particular variety, I think you can make an apple butter subtly unique to your area.

    Place the chopped apples in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Some peels are okay.
    Add granulated and brown sugar, ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, ground cloves, and salt to the pot. IApple Butter Ingredients have given you the general spice breakdown in the ingredients. I have dabbled with this over the years and now use a powdered blend of generic mulling spices, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice and cook it all with three cinnamon sticks. My family likes it spicier, so I use two tablespoons of powdered spices.
    Add lemon juice and the vanilla extract.
    Add water and stir the ingredients well.

    Apple Butter BoilBring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring frequently to prevent sticking.
    Once it boils, reduce the heat to an evaporative simmer and let the mixture simmer. I leave the lid on for the first hour. You will want to keep it low enough so it doesn’t sputter out of the pot. Stir it every 15-30 minutes. Cook for at least 4 hours, then remove the cinnamon sticks and use an immersion blender or transfer the mixture to a blender to puree until smooth. Return the blended mix to the pot and simmer for an additional time.

    Allow the mixture to cook and thicken. It will pass through an apple sauce phase and then develop a richApple Butter blend brown color. This process can take several hours. I find that it will take at least 4-6 hours. Be patient and continue stirring to prevent burning or crusting on the top. To check the consistency, it should stick nicely to the spoon once you stir it.

    Allow the apple butter to cool to room temperature. Transfer it to clean, sterilized jars with tight-fitting lids. Refrigerate the apple butter if you plan to use it within a few weeks. If you want to store it for a more extended period, consider water bath canning following proper canning procedures. This homemade apple butter is versatile and can be spread on toast, used as a topping for pancakes or waffles, or incorporated into various recipes. I like to use it on meats on the barbecue or as a base for barbecue sauces.

    POMEGRANATE JELLY
    Pomegranate Jelly RecipeIngredients:
    5 cups granulated sugar
    Juice from a dozen large pomegranates (about 4-5 cups)
    Optional: 2-4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses for extra flavor (adjust to taste)
    ¼ cup of homemade apple pectin per cup of juice used
    1/4 cup lemon juice

    Extract Pomegranate Juice: Cut the pomegranates in half and extract the juice using a juicer or pressingEasy Pomegranate Jelly Recipe the seeds to release the juice. Strain the juice to remove any pulp or seeds, and measure about 4-5 cups of pomegranate juice. Each large pomegranate has about ½ cup of juice in it. If you have a pomegranate tree, obtaining the number of pomegranates needed is easy. Getting it all extracted is the hard part. If you don’t want to go through the effort, you can always use store-bought 100% pure pomegranate juice. Here, I will juice four pomegranates and use two cups of store-bought juice to give me four full cups.

    Combine Ingredients: In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the pomegranate juice, granulated sugar, and lemon juice. Lemon juice lowers the pH of the jam mixture and neutralizes the negative charges on the pectin strands, allowing them to move together into a network to “set” the jam. The lemon flavor will not come through, but it will help the pectin do its thing, keep your jelly color bright, and enhance the flavors. Optionally, add pomegranate molasses for an extra layer of flavor. Stir the mixture over medium heat until the sugar dissolves completely. Use a gentle heat to avoid scorching the mixture. Once the sugar has dissolved, increase the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil for 30 minutes, Homemade Pectinstirring frequently to prevent sticking, scorching, or boiling over. When the mixture reaches a rolling boil, add the homemade apple pectin, stirring continuously to ensure even distribution. Bring the mix back to a gentle boil, like a bubbling simmer, and cook for up to 30 minutes.

    Pomegranates are low in pectin. Strawberries are, too, so I suggest following a strawberry jelly recipe if you do not use homemade pectin, as I am using here. We will add 1/4 cup of homemade apple pectin for each 1 cup of fruit juice. Remember, we also added 1/4 cup of lemon juice at the start of this process. We don’t want it to add additional water to our mix. The homemade pectin will add additional water, so we have to bring it to a boil, then reduce the mix and let the pectin work.

    Continue boiling the mixture until it reaches the setting point. This can take anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes. Place a spoonful of the mix on a chilled plate to test the setting point. If it wrinkles and holds its shape when pushed with a finger, it’s ready. This is where I had to add more pectin and continue a gentle boil. Making homemade pectin will leave you with different levels of pectin depending upon how efficient your process was and how much pectin was in the fruit, to begin with. A jelly is harder to get to set properly than a jam, so you may want to use homemade pectin for jams.

    Pressure CannerFill Jars: Remove the pot from the heat once the jelly reaches the desired consistency. Pour the hot jelly into the sterilized and warmed jelly jars, leaving about 1/4-inch headspace. Process the jars in a water bath canner for 5-10 minutes. Pomegranate jelly made with proper canning techniques and sealed jars can last for up to a year or even longer. Refrigerate after opening.

    ///
    There you have it. If you make these two recipes plus the two recipes from our previous post (Sweet Habenero Jelly & Homemade Pectin), you will have a basic understanding of making jelly with store-bought pectin, homemade pectin, apple butter, jelly from juice, and water bath canning. Those skills can crossover into many other cooking areas, and you can use these skills as a basis for creating a thousand different recipes made from thousands of other ingredients. How about apple and pumpkin butter, a dragon fruit juice jelly, a berry preserve, or jalapeno lime jelly? The ingredients may change. The quantities may vary slightly, but these four recipes will provide you with a basic understanding of how to create your own personal favorite family recipe. Most importantly, if you find yourself in possession of a couple of bushels of apples, you won’t have to fret and watch them rot on the counter. You can put them to use and enjoy rich flavorful foods and nutrition throughout the year. Remember, cooking is the key to self-sufficiency, and self-sufficiency is the key to prepping.

    As always, stay safe out there.

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